12V to ballasted coil

I'm planning to convert my 12V Lucas Sport coil to a ballasted coil to hopefully give the car some better long term storage starting ability. I can still start the car but only after extended cranking. I suspect the coil is not getting enough voltage to fire off during cranking as sometimes when I let go of the key, it would fire on the inertia from the still rotating engine.

I plan to just install the ballast coil in place with the ballast resistor on the original wiring and then run a wire from the starter terminal on the solenoid to the positive of the coil itself so that full voltage at cranking gets to the coil. When the key is released this 12V supply will cut off and the coil will continue to run from the ballast.

Any pitfalls to this?

When ign switch is off no current should be getting to the ballast-resistor and/or coil. If you have any current in the low tension circuit then something is wrong elsewhere. I would closely check circuits powered at all times, ign on or off, if you have a drain.

What do you mean by "extended cranking"? How long? Sluggish starter?

Stock B wiring in good condition shouldn't need to be re-engineered.

Maybe Jeff will come a long to discuss coil combinations.

You won't gain anything. If you have problems starting the car, you need to get the fuel mixture sorted.

oreo Wrote:

I'd be more willing to believe that a points ignition system didn't start after storage because of corrosion on the contacts versus the grease idea.

No matter if your ballast is internal or external, the secondary windings will only put out so much voltage. By bypassing the ballast for starting purposes, only a marginal change will be made. Get the fuel mixture set properly and the car will start almost immediately. Its likely too rich or too lean. Cold starting requires a very narrow window of proper fuel mixture to run well.

B-racer Wrote:

I am confused here as my 63 car has no ballast resistor?

Often guys with Holley 4 bbl carbs take the choke off rather than fool with it and risk it operating at odd times. To start the car they simply hold the throttle open and crank away. The cars will eventually start as does a with no choke. .

If the car runs well when warm than I would guess that the choke is not operating properly.

This HS4 carb is pretty simple. You just take the air cleaners off and operate the choke with your hand. The mechanism is very simple. I would guess your jets are not moving as they should.

If you are really concerned about your spark go tho the auto store and buy a spark tester. They are cheap but, it will convince you if your spark is OK.

Larry

tomkatb Wrote:

Lloyd, the difference might be that I don't run Lucas points? Blue Streak points have a MUCH higher spring rate, allowing the points to close under the most severe conditions. I also use only Bosch distributor grease on the points, which stays pliable in freezing conditions.

Jeff....That would be it......'back in the day' we had to make do with Lucas...........

You're sure right about Blue Streak points. Had the Lucas points burn when the Lucas condensor gave up on my '67 B. Only points I could find here in NM without mail order was Blue Streak from Auto Zone. They work perfect...bought a spare set.

Hi Guys

I went ahead with the replacement since I had already bought the coil. Its a NOS British made coil from around the 70's I think. Forgot the brand.

Anyway wired up with a relay to supply full 12V when cranking and it did seems to fire up much quicker. However I have to wait another 2 weeks or so to see if really works. Will report back.

I did read on a Triumph website that some owner where doing this mod to non ballasted coils.