MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
While trying to remove the shifting knob from my gearshift lever, it twisted off about half way down the threaded portion. The other end is still stuck in the shifting knob...
Can I still use this lever the way it is? Meaning just screw another shift knob on.
Or do I need to grind it down and re-tap the threads?
Or is it better just to get a used one and not worry about it...
Cheers,
As long as there are enough threads to hold the know on, I'd say use the lever as is.
You want more than just a few threads on the shift knob. If it breaks off during a shift from 2-3, you could gash your wrist wide open. I would try to get the broken part out with a screw extractor. Then simply tap a few extra threads onto the shift lever. If the threads were weak enough to break before, they are weak enough to break again. I would feel better with at least partially fresh threads holding the knob on. Either that or just buy a good used lever. They are fairly easy to find. If you can't get the broken threads out of the shift knob, a new shift knob is easy to find as well, even a NOS OEM knob.
Ditto Steve. A few threads leaves that ball hollow; yer pushing plastic and it will go sometime. I may have an early shft lever cheap if you email I'll check.
I looked last night and there are about 6 threads left on the shifter, not really enough I think to just screw on a new knob.
So, could a machine shop cut the shifter down a little below the current threads and then just retap the threads, or should I just get a used one and install it?
Cheers,
You can do it yourself.
Remove the lever from the car and rotate it against a bench grinder wheel in the area just below the remaining threads. Work slowly and try to get it as round possible for a distance of about the amount that you want to re-thread. Then use a die that will screw properly down the existing threads until you reach your newly machined area. Once there, begin to cut new threads very slowly, backing up and removing the swarf frequently. If you hit a space that is pretty difficult to cut, pull the die off and go back to the grinder. This cut and grind routine is a lot easier and more simple than it sounds and you can get a full re-thread done in about fifteen minutes, not including the few minutes needed to take the lever out of the car and put it back in again.
Jack
Another Question:
Since most of the threads are still in the shift knob...
What is the length of the threads for the knob on the gearshift lever.
In other words, if I need to make the diameter smaller, then re-tap how long should the
new threads be down the gearsift lever?
Anyone have a measurement?
Thanks,
I would do what Jack suggested even though the new lever is available. Essentially this is how you can shorten the shifter. I believe the stock shifter is way too long. Albeit helps get the car in gear easier due to the increased leverage, it makes for a long throw and that just doesn't seem to coincide with the sports car nature.
Ditto to Bryan's post.
The length of the OEM threads is about an inch and a half or so.
As others here are already familiar with some of my predilections, I am a proponent of shortened gear levers. They aren't for every one, perhaps less so for those of us who are of the feminine persuasion, as they do increase change effort a little. Most folks get over that quickly though and feel that the trade off is worth it to get that "notchey" light switch on the wall feel. My lever is shortened by 2" and I change gears using only my wrist, keeping my elbow steady on the console arm rest.
Jack
Keep in mind that 3-sync boxes already have that "notchy" mechanical feel without modification. It is part of the charm of the early gearbox. Later transmissions benefit more from a shortened lever because they are a much softer feel and easier to shift. Shortening an early lever can make it far more difficult to engage. No problem for fun driving, but in traffic it might become annoying.
Ditto on that post Steve!
There isn't anything like feeling the selection of first gear in the non-synchro box. I hate to say it but it is a manly sensation. Whe I first drove one of my Kenworths it had a similar feeling. You just KNEW that there were some BIG ole' gears hidden in that box and that they were not about to break so you just had to have at it with the clutch too.
Double clutching down to first wothout a clash in a non-synchro B is a rite of passaage IMHO.
LOL
Jack
Jack - "Double clutching down to first wothout a clash in a non-synchro B is a rite of passaage IMHO."
You would like drivng the 36 PB that we had with a crash box. I soon learned that it was as easy to shift without the clutch as with it. From then on the only time the clutch was used was to start the car from a dead stop.
cheers,
My first experience with said process was with my friend Toby's Chrysler. It was a '33 sedan with a flat head straight eight bought new by his grandfather Ramsey. Bonny and Clyde or Jack and Toby? LOL
Anyway when he went off to VietNam his mother sold it off for a song because it was "in the way". I'm not sure that Toby ever forgave her for that.
Jack