2 questions here, indulge me please

1/ I have to turn the ignition (tumble the engine) 3-4 times before my '80 LE starts, yes I pump the throttle 3-4 times first. Once it starts it stay running, albeit at high RPMs, (I have to blip the throttle to get it to settle the RPMs) Is this normal, I have change plugs, wires, rotor cap when I got it a few weeks ago, is there anything I should do/change to get better and easier starts?
2/ I installed driving lights today, look sweet!! The come on with the park lights. The tech hooked it up to the battery via a 30AMP fuse and to a 30AMP relay onto the fusebox, possibly tapping into the park lights wires.....not sure exact connection. He cautioned me about driving too long hinting that the 30w fuse and relay may not be 100% on long night driving......but said it should be fine. Will it though, what would have been better or safer?

Thanks, sorry for rambling.

1.Define high rpms. With auto chokes, there can be some higher than normal rpms, but too high can be a sign of otherstuff.
2. No clue.

Its stays at about ....ohhh maybe 2000rpms until I tap the throttle then it settlles back around 1000, in fact, it idles at 1000, I have to adjust the idle screw I guess.

I don't think pumping the throttle will do anything--no accelerator pump in either Zenith or SUs. Perhaps with a DGV...

there can be issues with the automatic chonke on these carbs, search the forum for other threads on the topic.

As for the lights...hmm, I think i'd wonder a lot about the admonishing (should be fine means if the lights fail out in north bumbf__k ND, you are on your own)

That sounds within the realm of normalcy.
Mac raises a couple of good points; is your carb stock? I wasn't going to mention the pumping just because.

Is he concerned about whether or not the 30 amp fuse is adequate? Is certainly should be unless you installed some REALLY powerful driving lamps! And, if it weren't adequate, I don't understand why having them on longer would be an issue. I would think they would pull more amps when first switched on than any other time.

Good point Joe. I used to rent a shop where it was necessary to physically hold the circuit breaker in the on position to get certain equipment up and running. Then you could let go.

chris Wrote:

If you mean it goes 3-4 revolutions prior to starting, that would be good; not running rich.
A good tune-up may be in order though just to check that all is as it should be.
I guess mine don't go 4 rounds now that I think about it.

chris Wrote:

are you saying that the driving lights come on automatically with the parking lights or you can turn them on after the parking lights are on? I'd grab the power from somewhere else. You might want them on when the headlights are off. (don't ask)

comart45 Wrote:

Here's what the owner's manual says about starting an LE (or any late model MGB with a Zenith):


"Switch on the ignition and check:
That the ignition warning light glows.
That the fuel guage registers

Depress the throttle pedal fully and release.

Operate the starter. Do not depress the throttle pedal while the starter is operated.

As soon as the engine is started check:
That the oil pressure guage registers.
That the ignition warning light has gone out.

Within fifteen to twenty seconds of starting the engine, quickly depress and release the throttle pedal to set the automatic choke to its correct position."


(Also, according to the manual, 850 rpm's is normal idle, but when I had a Zenith I usually idled between 900 and 1000).

And the word was heard.
Good one!

If your driving lights are going to require a 30 amp fuse, you better install an 85 amp alternator. I can't imagine drawing that much amperage unless they're giant, aircraft landing lights.

Could you post a picture of the location of your driving lights?

As John English already said, there's no need to pump the throttle but with automatic chokes you do need to depress the throttle to "set" the choke.

I haven't messed with an MGB with a Zenith in over 15 years, but 2000 RPM is too fast IMO. It may just be a matter of lowering the fast idle adjustment.

It may not be the size of the fuse but the size of the wire he's concerned about..

gatorbrit Wrote:

Thanks, I'd like to see the pics as I have thought about tarting up the front end of my B a little.