MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
Drivers Side came off no problem. Here are a few pics. Next post will illustrate problem with passenger side wing removal....Notice where car had once been in an accident:
Small pin holes at bottom of fender (see straw from PB Blaster can):
OK the passenger side wing has been soldered/welded on and I have zero experience with solder/welds....Need advice how to remove while doing the least damage....
There is NOT supposed to be a weld/solder between the 2 captive nuts where valence attaches:
and obviously there looks to be additional solder work done here as well....
Guys I need advice since that wing is not going to budge as long as the welds remain....Thanks in advance,
Marc
The little blip in the front apron? NO worries.
The pinholes would almost make one think of welding shut.
So waht is the removal issue?
OH! Well, if it is soldered, heat it with a small torch (the kind with the screw on tanks) and the solder will run off. If it is welded, you will need to look into using an angle grinder or some such. Yuck.
Maybe a Dremel would fit in there? I just had fun today cutting off a fifth wheel ball that some backwoods engineer had welded to a 2x2" square tube that is welded to the frame rails and stuck up through the p/u bed. Those angle cutters are pretty slick if you can get it to fit your space. I was using a larger air tool than a Dremel.
chris Wrote:
Scratch it with a knife or screwdriver; solder will easily mar while a weld won't show that you even tried. Or heat it up.
If it is solder, and from the picture it looks to be, a small propane torch will melt it. If it is brazed or welded, you will probably need a cutting torch.
TT Wrote:
Sorry, I'm just a littlel slow here. There were no replies when I posted. They already got it covered.
Marc,
If it's solder it will melt in seconds with a propane torch.
Steve
It shouldn't take long for it to start melting with a propane torch, if it is solder. I think I'd go with Chris's idea about a dremmel or a cutoff wheel instead of a cutting torch, if it is welded.
TT Wrote:
It looks like you have a real nice 63 there. A lot better than my 64. I find that an air chisel is the best tool for removing spot welds/ any welded sheet metal. It will bust right through anything. REMEMBER: an air chisel is what I would consider to be a "finger of god tool," just as an acetylene torch, and you must use it with respect. I built my own spot weld chisel for just for that reason. The angle and orientation that you hold it will determine if you destroy a panel. It is sometimes possible to crack a weld right down the center which is handy.
I am not sure if this would help you with your fender, but it’s definitely something I would keep in mind.
Last note: The air chisel is the loudest tool I own other than my M1 Garand! Maximum ear protection is mandatory.
Marc,
Looking at the pictures a little closer I think they're welds. Brazing generally leaves a joint that looks like solder, smooth and continuous. It looks like the PO did a series of tack weld to secure the panel.
Steve
Filth and Greed Motors Wrote:
It isn't going to hurt to try the propane torch first though. Brazing is golden not silver like solder. You are correct though that those do look more like welds than soldering joints.