73 Dash Replacement Extra Questions

I have reread all the responses everyone gave me on the dashboard replacement again, now that I have the dash. Seems that most of the input was for just replacing the vinyl on the existing dash.
The dash arrived yesterday and it appears to be a complete unit. The special molded part is there covered with the new vinyl already.
1.) Do you have to remove the WindShield to replace the complete dash?
2.) If you do have to remove is it just a matter of removing the four bolts and the center rod? Any trick to getting the tension right on the center rod when you put it back?
3.) Would you remove all the gauges before taking the dash out or would you remove the dash with gauges in tack and disconnect the wiring?

Boy - this project is getting complex. A lot more to a MGB than a Morris Minor.
Thanks ahead of time for your input

I just took my dash out last night (78 B) I went fairly smoothly. Took about 2 hours

You don't have to remove the windsheild.

The steps I used were:
1) Remove Gauges
2) Remove vents and Glove box (not sure if a 73 has these)
3) Remove three phillips screws from the bottom part of the dash.
4) Remove the nuts securing the top the the dash (I think there were 6-7)

I would recommend removing the gauges first because it makes it so much easier to access the nuts on that side.

Tonight I will be applying the new dash to the metal frame and installing it back in the car.

Good Luck

There is no need to remove the windshield to replace the dash. The dash ends at the panel that runs between the dash and the windshield. I cannot quite figure out what you have. Between the dash and the windshield there is a metal panel covered with a vinyl material. This panel is that the windshield anchor rod attatches to in the middle. The dash is held to this panes along the top edge with six or so 1/4" nuts. You will need a 7/16" socket with a universal joint and a long extension with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove these nuts. There are also a couple of screws in the center at the bottom that must come out as well. I have tried to replace a dash both with the gauges and without them and not found alot of difference. Either way, it is a PITA to get behind the dash to work. I find that it is a bit easier to remove the steering wheel. Others say remove the seats so you can lie on the floor an work above your head. I enlist my wife who has much smaller hands to do the most cramped jobs. Oh, while you have the dash out, it would be smart to replace the hose to the washer spray nozzels, because you may not be able to get to it again anytime soon. And be SUPER careful with those face level vents, they are easily damaged and not replaceable from Moss.

Seats out are almost a must, those top dash nuts would be a BEAR otherwise, because you must lie on your back and look up. They row across in insidious places.

Terry, if you are replacing the main vinyl part of the dash it is a job you need to know how to do. Many of these guys have done it but if you're not careful you'll end up getting the new vinyl glued in out of place. And as Gerry and I have found, the glove box won't fit back in. I lucked out and got mine to finally fit, after hours of work and help with a heat gun.
Gerry has some good advice and tips if you are about to do this job.

I guess this is the part where I'm getting confused. The dash I purchased appears to be a matter of just removing the old dash completely then replacing with this new one. The new one has the black vinyl already glued onto this yellow foam molded looking part.... Guess I'm not making sense. If you don't understand maybe I could take a digital picture so you know what I'm talking about.

I know exactly what you're talking about, BTDT. You have to be really careful in removing the old vinyl and foam underneath. Part of that foam is supposed to stay on the metal dash. It's a different type of foam and is orange rather than yellow and it's much harder than the yellow stuff that is glued to the vinyl cover you just got. The orange hard foam has to stay. You can peel and grub the yellow stuff off.
Most of the problems come when the new cover is glued on. If it isn't fitted just right the opening for the glove box will be shifted to one side or the other. You can still get the gauges and switches in but the glove box will be a bear.
Gerry held his cover in place with some big washers in the holes for the small gauges. Sounds like a good idea to me.
Take your time and keep trial fitting it until you're ready to glue it.
It's not just a question of ripping all the old vinyl and foam off and slapping the new vinyl on.

Wray has given you some good advice. You need to dry fit the dash until you are 100% right it is right. I use 3M super trim ahessive. It is a contact glue and once I put the two together there is no turning back. When I take a dash out I remove the intire steering column. It really is easy to remove,6 bolts, and it makes life much easier. I also remove the seats, and put a pellow down for my head. Then with a pin light in my mouth I go to work on the upper bolts. I normally leave everything hooked up till I get the dash in my lap. Take notes were every wire hooks up.

How much trouble am I going to run into removing my new seat covers so I can re-glue them properly?

Wow I had no idea it was that hard, I am going to attemp it tomorrw morning. Any and all tips would be greatly appreciated. I had no problem getting the dash out with the seats and steering column still in place. you guys are making me worry about the installation of the vinyl.

I hope everything goes as planned tomorrow.

Cheers All

Liam

No guys, he's not replacing foam or vinyl, he's swapping out the dash as a complete unit.

It's been a while, but, as others have said:
Do NOT remove the windshield. You're setting yourself up for a world of pain if you do.
Remove screws, if any, on bottom of dash.
When I did mine, I removed the glovebox and started working toward the driver's side from there. I would leave anything in that you don't NEED to remove, and remove what you feel you need to. Tag the wires so you know where they go.
You may need to remove the center console and steering wheel. Or maybe not. Then put the new dash in the same way.

Ok Baxter I think I have it. Actually everything in the cockpit of the car is removed except the steering wheel and dashboard. I shouldn't have problem getting in position for this task. Thanks again for all the advice. Must admit you all have me a bit shakey on this now. I thought it was simpler that it sounds now.

Dear Terry,

Can you post a pic of the dashboard and where you got it?

Thanks,

Chris Tyler

Be real carefull of the face level vents. They are hard to remove without destroying the tabs that lock them in place. Don't even think about removing them until the dash is out and on your workbench where you can see the tabs. Depending on what year your car is the switches may be a real pain to remove without destroying the bezels. If you have a mechanical oil press gauge, be sure that you do not damage the tubing or lose the leather gasket that goes between the tube and the gauge. Lose it and you will have a leak at the gauge! Good luck!

It depends on the type of glue and how much you put on. It shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Sure I should be able to do that. Don't know how to post pictures here though. Where can I find that info out?

Terry,

I'm not sure how to post either. I think the pictures have to be on a web

site already, but not sure?


Thanks,

Chris Tyler

Yes that's correct. I did some reading. At this point I don't have my web page completed. I could send you a couple photos as attachments to your email if you like. I got this dash pad from Brit Tek.

Terry, if it's a dash pad, you've got a whole different set of problems, and you need to listen to the folks talking about glue and such. It's easy to tell... does the dash you got from brit tek have a steel backing?

Dear Terry,

If you can, send me a pic by email.

Thanks,

Chris Tyler

Looks like me and terry are in the same boat. We both have dash pads that need to be glued to the exist metal frame. I was just going to use regular contact cement, but if there is any better adhesive for this application, please give me the heads up. I didn't get around to putting the new vinyl pad on today, looks like a job for sunday afternoon.

Liam

One more guestion. When do I cut the holes for the gauges, vents, console light and glove box. I assume after everything is glued down?

3-M Super Adhesive. They didn't use enough or correctly. The covers didn't stick to the seat back foam. Can't have that, it's gotta be right.

Liam, yes, after it's glued down. You have to use the impressions of where the instruments and glove box go to get it lined up. Take it slow and easy. Make sure it fits correctly before you glue it. It's no big deal, just be patient and make sure you have eveything lined up.
Jim Smith from Myrtle Beach glued the dash in his 72 with good results. He cut strips of plastic and laid them over the dried contact cement on the dash. He then put the cover in place and pulled the strips out as he press the cover on. Said it worked great. According to him, the strips did not stick to either the contact cement on the cover or on the dash. You may want to use gentle heat from a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the edges and fold them over.
I used a heat gun. I haven't used a hair dryer since my 20s.

No it doesn't have the steel. I now have my original dash out of the car. And I guess I have some other problems now. My original dash has a few extra components... like 4 small round lights across the top. The new dash doesn't have these spots. Then the oil gauge on my original dash is in between the speedo and the tach. No spot for it in the new dash either. Then life is getting even more fun.... the vinyl piece that goes on the car under the windshield. Well it's messed up. Guess it was before I started this project but didn't notice because of the dash. To replace that vinyl piece I believe I have to take the windshield off... which of course everyone seems to say don't do...........
Any suggestions?
Thks
Terry

I just sent the pics. Let me know if you can open.

Liam - is your MG a 73 also? Did you get your dash pad from Brit Tek? Do you have locations in the new dash for all your gauges and lights?
The one I have doesn't have the location for the oil gauge, which on my original sits inbetween the speedo and tach. Also the 4 small round lights across the top... no locations..... no location for my heater knobs...
Checked the packing slip again to make sure they have the right part. Says it will work for my year. Curious what yours looks like.

I don't think mine had those holes either. If I remember correctly, all the dash covers are made by the same guy so it won't matter which supplier it comes from.

None of the holes should be cut until the new skin is glued in place. Then it is an easy matter to cut them with an Exacto knife using the metal backing plate as a guide. In glueing my cover, I made some clamps to hold the plastic flat by using some big fender washers and flatstock with 1/4" bolts and thumscrews. Simply drill a 1/4" hole where the gauge goes,put a fender washer on the front and a piece of flatstock with a bolthole drilled in the center on the back and clamp the dash cover in place with the bolt and thumbscrew. If you have face level vents, use the flatstock cut to the proper length on both sides. Use the spray contact cement for the bulk of the cover, and brush on stuff for the folded edges. The poly strip idea works good for holding the two apart until you are ready to stick them together. Once the two contact cement coated surfaces touch, there's no turning back. The hardest thing for me was waiting for the contact cement to dry. If you get impatient and try to stick the two surfaces together too soon, you will pay big time. Wait until you think you have screwed up, then ten more minute before sticking everything together. Now, where I screwed up-the glove box. I learned that the alighnment of the glove box is CRITICAL! Everything can look great otherwise but if the opening that the glovebox liner has to fit into is off a mere 1/16" you're screwed. Because of the way the new cover has to go aroubd the corner, things have to be perfect. So, I recomend that you start by aligning the glove box opening first instead of the instruments. Once you get the cover in place, you still have to fold and glue the edges. Makd a series of darts along the top and bottom edges, brush cement on both surfaces and let dry. Use a hair dryer or heatgun to soften the plastic and fold it over and stick it down one piece at a time. Wooden clothespins make decent clamps here. Remember, the key is to make sure everything fits before any glue is applied and then let the glue dry before trying to stick the plastic down. If it is not dry enough, it will stick for a little while, then pop up later. When you start this job, lay some towels down on your workbench to protect your new cover. Place your contact cement container in a cardboard box so that you cannot knock it over and spill cement all over everything. I use cheap paint brushes to apply the cement. They only last 5-10 minutes before they start getting stiff, so get a dozen or so. I hate gloves so I work without them, but I keep a rag with some lac thiner within reach to clean my hands often and to wipe up any strings that may end up in the wrong place. Actuall working time is less than a half day, but the work needs to be done in stages, so go slow and allow yourself plenty of time. I put the cover in place, the waited till the next day to do the rest. Hope some of this benifits you guys. I still have one botched up dash hanging in my shop to remind me of all the misstakes I made the first time around.

Dear Terry,

I did receive the email pics.

Thanks!

Looks Great!

Chris Tyler

I have a 78, and the dash looks to be indentical to the original.