Advice for a first-time MGB buyer

Hi all!

After discovering that the cost of restoring my '76 Camaro to running status would be about 4x the cars current scrap value, I'm embarking on the wonderful journey of purchasing my first vehicle. Through much deliberation and searching of Craigslist, I've decided that the best thing a spry young 19 year old could possibly drive would be the MG MGB (Not entirely due to the delightfully low cost for one, being around $4000 here in BC).

That being said, is there any advice that you sage owners can offer? I've already read the guides on the site several times, but I would like to be very well prepared when I go car hunting in the late spring. I'm hoping to find a pre-75 model, as they seem to handle considerably better from what I hear, and to be honest the chrome grill is just so much more enticing than the rubber bumper. Are there any particularly glaring issues that, if observed, should warn me to stay away from a car? Like I said, it's my first car purchase, and I'd like to make it a car that I can enjoy for the rest of my life!

Hopefully this is in the right section, and you fine gentlemen can give me some excellent advice on how best to approach this!

Ah, yes, and the car in the Avatar is sadly not mine. That is a placeholder for my dream car until I have one of my own to snap a picture of in an equally delightful setting ;)

It's always best to buy convertibles in the fall or winter, since the price goes up when the temperature does.

Find one with NO RUST issues. They rust from the inside out. Classic tell tale signs are paint bubbles or holes along the lower part of the front fender, rocker panels, and in front of the rear wheel down low.("dogleg" ara). Sometimes the gas tank is rusted out, but it comes from the top of the tank, so, again, you cant see it until it's all over.

The cars are pretty primitive, so mechanical work isnt rocket science. I personally prefer late model rubber bumper cars because they have power brakes and a higher, more convenient ride height. They also have electronic ignition and an electric fan for the radiator. The 78 and on handle quite well. It's less than $500 to change them to chrome bumpers.

Good luck finding one.Welcome to the car hobby.

Alas, I only recently received the raise that is permitting this endeavor, and coupled with license issues I cannot make my purchase till April at the earliest, Tis unfortunate that I shall miss out on the lower prices.

Thank you for the advice regarding the fuel tank rusting, I had not thought of that before. Only $500 to change a '78 to chrome bumper? Hmm, perhaps I may just look into the later model in that case. Is it easier to put a V8 in the earlier or later models? I was hoping to do so at some point down the road, to help with those long trips on BC highways it will undoubtedly be subject to. I recall reading that past a certain year, the engine compartment needed to be changed significantly to support the V8, but cannot for the life of me recall which it was.

Thanks for the warm welcome! I've been tinkering with the aforementioned Camaro's engine since I was but a young lad, but the body is past the point of resurrection on my budget. Part of what attracted me to the MGB really, the relative simplicity of the engine means I can easily carry out repairs with my tinkers know how :)

Hello from a fellow 19 year-old!

First, congrats on choosing the MGB, you wont regret it! To answer your questions, from '77-'80 all MGBs used the MGB GT V8 engine bay set-up. Second, changing to chrome bumpers is not a matter of throwing $500 at the car, its more work intensive.

Welcome to the forum!!!

-Nathan

Thanks! Glad to see I'm not the only young person with a love of classic roadsters around. How work intensive would you say it would be to replace the rubber bumper style with a more classic chrome fishgrill? Tis a quandry indeed now, as the power of the V8 would be very useful here in the mountains, but at the same time if extensive cutting & reforming is required I may have to stick to pre-1974. I'm very much in love with the style that the chrome grill adds to the overall design.

You can get all of the power you need from a slightly modified B engine and a supercharger. The systems are easy bolt on units and a lot of bang for the buck. While a V8's power is tempting, the work and financial outlay are something to be considered. RAY

At least you're doing your research first. A couple of years ago when I was having my early-mid-20s-crisis, I decided to get a B and the next day went out and got one. It's a '75, which turns out to be pretty much the worst B out there according to popular opinion. Probably should've done my fact checking first... That being said, I certainly love the old thing now and don't regret it.

As far as the V8 goes - well, as luck would have it up here in ye olde BC I see the Rover V8s come up for sale reasonably often... So you might end up in luck there. But honestly, as long as you have the twin SUs you'll have a good time. It's nothing like a Camaro in a straight line, but trust me - it's a lot classier. You're heading in the right direction, sir B)

mechanically these cars are very solid. Someone said recently, like a tractor. Cheap to repair. The electric fuel pump is a weak point as they are usually about 30 years old and never been touched. Any low pressure generic fuel pump will do as a substitute.
I did a V8 conversion and started with a rubber bumper car, then converted to chrome bumpers and lowered the ride height to chrome bumper height. In fact completly retroing the car back to a mark one, even with pull handle doors.
I believe that you would do better starting with a chrome bumper car, setting the V8 low and putting in a rubber bumper rack and shortening or substituting the steering shaft. Or indeed fitting a supercharger which can be done in a weekend.
http://www.hi-flow.com/
Moss also sell one, but not as good.
To do the bumper and ride height conversion cost me way more than $500.
http://webspace.webring.com/people/rp/paulhird/mgb_chrome/

here is what you need to do. I've also welded in the front blinker bits
http://webspace.webring.com/people/rp/paulhird/mgb_chrome/vv

The V8 is faster than 99% of anything on the road but aside from the breathtaking acceleration they are not as interesting as the supercharger I believe. Once in the car the V8 seems to go forever with minimal attention.
here are some conversions
http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-MG-Conversions.htm

The mark one and twos are prettier cars to my mind. I prefer the steel dash with all it's chrome bezel instruments to the plastic one. Wire wheels are nice, however you can fit Dayton knockoffs to bolt hubs. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Dayton-Wire-Wheels.htm
You might prefer to have an all syncro gear box. The Mark one's din;t have syncro on first gear. You definitely want to try and get an overdrive car. The laycock electric overdrive is a unit on the back end of the gearbox and operates on 3rd and 4th gear.

Now for the bad news, like Scott said RUST. There are lots of rust free MGB's. Especially in California, I've got one from thereabouts. There are also lots of rusty MGB's, don't be tempted to rescue one of those.
The sills are the area of concern. That's that bit under the door. You should have a though understanding of this area. Exterior rust can be patched but in order to get at the sills you have to do major reconstruction. getting someone else to do it $$$$$$.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29038
As you can see, no problems getting parts for MGB's. You can even buy an entire body brand new.
You can see the Sill cross section. #11 is the main supporting part, and is completely hidden. If there is rust in the outer visible bit #10 or #12, you can guarantee #11 is not looking too good either.
There is a useful trick. There are a number of drain holes along the bottom of the sill assembly. These should all be free and clear. Put an Allan key up in there and if you can only turn it 180 degrees, the sill is good. If you can turn it 360, bad news, The inner section #11 has become oxides of iron.

The other area is the dog legs

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29037

Even my rust free car had a little here. Just had it done. It's usually around 350 to do The dog legs. Some times the sill behind the doglegs is rusted and that needs a patch. Some one had put about 3 inchs of filler in mine.
I'll attach a photo.


So doglegs no big deal, but obviously you want to ovoid it if you can. Sills, run screaming.


http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1261323,1261323#msg-1261323

some of those links aren't working, I'll try again
http://webspace.webring.com/people/rp/paulhird/mgb_chrome/

The link on chrome bumper conversion Peter provided has some great pix. I used it as an information source when I did mine. http://webspace.webring.com/people/rp/paulhird/mgb_chrome/

I just looked over my notes on the chrome conversion, and I found out why my costs were so modest.

1. I did not lower my car (I've had several low (chrome bumper) B's and hated the problems of hitting bottom and replacing the exhaust). In my part f the world there are pot holes and uneven driveways and curb cuts. SCRAPE, etc.
2. I made my own brackets and also the smallish rear finishers. I also saw one without the finishers below the rear lights and the car looks quite ok without the finishers.
3. I used 'previously owned' grill and lamp fixtures. Less than $75 all together.
4. I used re-used the front lower valence piece, which I feel provides superior airflow for cooling. Patched the wire pass through holes, etc.
5. I did not include the cost of a full paint job.

Other stuff:
I got an old cracked pillow dash, removed the foam and stuff, then painted it with black crackle paint, and made my own 'eye brow' for the dash. Cool finished look, It is remeniscent of the early metal dashes
I made an actuator to replace the bonnet opening cable. Now mine has a small bell crank and lever so it opens from in front of the car. I got so tired of pulling so hard on those cables, and I once had an old cable fail. It was a true A PITA to get the bonnet open.


I put a V6 in one of mine. It seemed easier, cheaper and a neater result than the V8. (I had the parts for both swaps)
Great car now. No longer a toy car/ fiddle project. It starts and runs great anytime ( just like my fuel injected 4 cylinder one), but it is stronger by a lot.

Hi Ryan,

I bought my first and only MGB in '83 at 17 and still have it. Avoid, rust, rust and rust. Everything else can be fixed, if it is in sound mechanical shape to begin with. You can buy every part for this car new or rebuilt and it's easy to work on. Good luck in the search. You'll love this forum it's the best.

Mike

Welcome Ryan.
You'll have some great cars to choose from out there and there are some really talented board members on your coast too for some support. Don't be afraid to put the word out when you have a candidate and see if someone can take a look with you. Like others have suggested, find the least rusty one you can afford. Relatively speaking, everything else is cake.

It's going to be tough to find a rust free chrome bumper example anywhere in Canada for $4g's. I've been looking at a lot of rusty $7g examples, though. Be very careful when you buy. A $4g MGB will almost always be rusty or bondo'd. Black bumper cars will be cheaper and easier to find in nice shape with low mileage. They're as fun to drive as the earlier ones with a few mods, IMO. But it's your choice. Read, read,read as much on these cars as you can before buying.

I didn't bother to read any of the responses...just to tell you - get a late model B. Although no dis-respect to the chrome bumper cars, (very cool)...the later model cars are younger, cheaper (but no lesser quality) B) - and ride more comfortably - even though it is a relative "ride" in whatever B you get.

Wow, thanks for all the great responses! (Especially Peters, those links answered a metric ton of questions I had) I'm certainly glad I found this place.

I think I'm going to go with a later model 77 or 78, as they seem to be more readily available and it would be a matter of time to revert it to a classic look compared to the financial outlay to locate a decent early model in my vicinity. No to mention the lack of body modifications needed to put a higher power engine in ;)

Thanks for all the advice, I feel much more secure in my decision to get one of these great cars =D

Hi, Ryan. Welcome to the Forum.

I recently purchased my B in CA (no rust issues). Still had to spend about $2500 to date getting it up to snuff. Bigest expenditure was four (4) new exhaust valves and a new head gasket. Four new tires (Sumitomo H-200's). New CA permitted Cat. Converter, which required special work by my muffler guy to make it fit. New thermostat elbow.

Other things included all new belts and hoses, and some minor interior parts.

The car was in excellent cosmetic condition (interior and exterior) when I bought it, but the PO had apparently let the mechanics slide a little.

Oh, I had to replace the turn signal switch, too, recently. $187.00 parts and labor.

Certainly a compression check (dry and wet) should be done on any prospective car. That will tell you about the condition of the valves and piston rings.

I am not by any stretch of the imagination finished with my car, but it DID win First Place in the RB category here recently!

Next on the adjenda is to fix the "clunk" in the rear end (probably the thrust washers) and replacing all of the wheel bearings.

I think you will find that on cars this old something is always breaking (especially anything with plastic parts) but I guess that is one of the joys of owning them.

Definitely a car for "Type A" personalities!

By the way, it helps to be near a decent parts supplier - I am only 20 minutes from Moss here in Santa Barbara, CA. Probably would not have even considered buying another one ( I had a new one in the 1980's) but for that!

Oh, almost forgot - try to get one with OD. Makes a big difference if you do a lot of freeway driving (as here in CA).

If you can get one with the earlier twin SU carbies, that's a benefit. Many people change back, allot more power .

You are on the same continent as California, check out ebay for a while,

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Cars-Trucks-/6001/i.html?_dmpt=US_Cars_Trucks&_mak=MG&_mod=MGB&_sop=&_rdc=1

You could drive it home! Just get a though service first grease front bearings etc. .And carry a spare fuel pump.

Are you sure about those rubber bumpers?check out this beauty
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-MGB-Tartan-Red-OD-wire-wheels-rebuilt-drivetrain_W0QQitemZ250540908944QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3a5566e190#v4-37

Obviously I prefer the chrome . I don't know how up you are on the various models

http://www.mgexperience.net/article/evolution.html

This guide claims that an early 74 or late '73, just before the rubber bumpers, had some of the V8 engine compartment changes already. Not too sure about that, worth a look though. Anything to do with MG tends to be a bit vague as regards cut of dates for changes. They used up stock and depending on US or UK, or Australian models it varied. The early 74 had these giant square over riders on chrome bumpers. Most people took them off ASAP.

Do keep in mind that the rubber bumper car is not worth as much as a chrome bumper car. That a rubber bumper car converted to chrome bumpers is also not worth as much as an original chrome bumper car, and it will cost you more than the difference to convert. The through the guards extractors that most people now use in V8 conversion make the inner guard changes redundant. RV8 style extractors (though the guard) aid cooling and add horsepower. some people convert by bolting the mounts to the front crossmember. If that is legal where you are, much better solution. You might be up for a new rack anyway (just age) and getting the steering shaft cut and re-splined at one end is not super expensive.
However lots of people like the look of those huge heavy rubber bumpers;)
Ovoid the '75, it did not have antisway bars, all other years did.


Mark one- Steel dash, pull handle doors, no reverse or side marker lights, no syncro on first. Banjo diff' lighter but not as strong as the later diff's (strong enough though) Much sought after.
Mark two- syncro gearbox

Sigh,

It is , a hard decision, Peter. On the one hand, the more I look at the rubber bumper years, the more I feel that it changes the car too much towards a 1980's-era aesthetic, and retracts from the classic roadster look. On the other hand, I really do want to put a V8 in there, if only for the entirely selfish reason of wanting to impress everyone I come across. What it comes down to, in the end, is whether it will be more costly to purchase a 78 and restore the bumpers, or a pre-74 and modify the engine compartment to hold the V8. The dashboard is also of some concern, though less so than the exterior.

Accessability is also key in purchasing decisions. While I'd love to take a road trip in the summer to drive one back from Baja or Arizona, work and other commitments definitely prevent me from doing so, and shipping one from such a distance would add 2k onto the price, putting it firmly out of my reach. So, the hunt continues for the time being. Thanks for the links again, quite helpful as always!

Peter,

You are making me nervous. What size hex key do you use to test the sills? I went to the garage and the holes are about an 3/4 of an inch and feel all clear. I don't see any rust. Please explain how to test if the sills have potential rust?

Thanks,

Larry

alan keys, the largest one that would fit up though the hole. or a bit of wire will do. You put the short end up through the hole and twirl the long end, and generally have a feel about. The drain holes are pressed into the outer rocker cover. The rocker cover is welded to the inner panel. You can see the very back end of the inner panel in my photo, where some rust has been cut out of the rocker cover. In fact the whole back bottom end of the rocker cover. The back of the MG sill has four vertical sections, the dogleg, the rocker cover, the inner panel and the in-side sill. There are only three sections in the middle.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29038

have a look at the cross section, the bit in the circle
The alan key (or bent wire) goes up between the outer sill, (rocker panel #10) and the inner panel (sill/ truss, #11). If you twirl the alan key then it will knock against the inner panel #11. If it is there. If its rusted away it will turn all the way. The inner panel will rust at the bottom fist

Again, the later Model cars are younger, and no different in quality and workmanship. Peter as with many (myself included) in the past, have been a bit-too high and mighty about the RB or CB cars. Look, they're both great cars, the rubber bumpers are very retro and very cool indeed, if like any piece on any car, are taken car of. Even if they're not - they're a heck of lot easier to bring back to almost new, without replacing them, (like CB B) cars, bumpers.

I looked and couldn't find what sort of car Peter owns? So Peter, which car do you own, mmm? Do you own an MGB? Do you? Have you worked on it much lately? I wonder? :I3:

Hi Ryan and welcome.

I suggest its a good idea to join a local car club. I belong to the OECC Old English Car Club that has branches in Vancouver, Comox, Nanaimo and Victoria. Members have any UK bulit cars including MGs, Triumphs, Jags etc. You might also consider joining an MG Club...I know that there is one in Victoria.

Membership costs are a very reasonable $20 + - per year, and you get to meet others that have common interests who have lots of knowledge to share. There's also the social aspect and car rallies (usually twice per month during the summer).

I look forward to seeing you driving down the Island Highway next summer.

regards, Steve

Okay, you're simply Wrong as wrong can be about the late Model MGB's Peter. And you don't need to paint them - just wet-sand them, authentically correct and they're not even made of Rubber anyway. The late model MGB's look awesome lowered, with the existing bumpers attached! Mine won 1st place at the ABFM here in Portland in 08 (didn't go this year) because it literally rained hard, for 48 hours and I couldn't fathom getting my car that wet.

No matter how you slice it, the late model B's are equally as good as the CB cars - without any exceptions. I don't need to stuff a V8 in my car - as she runs strong, fast and is very nimble.

Why don't you have images of your baby on your bio page? Alright, I'm through with this conversation. Good day mate!

Pfew, 10K for a V8 conversion? Well, that's out of the question then! Easily twice the price of the cars I've been looking at :P

I've been doing quite a bit of reading, and I've heard that the later models were throttled with severe emissions controls (another reason I was considering an older model). Can anyone confirm this, and perhaps give a rough estimate of how much it would cost to restore the standard engine to pre-emissions levels of horsepower? It seems that even without a V8 conversion, the pre-75 models remain superior, at least in terms of power and speed.

No disrespect to the rubber bumpers intended! I've seen a few pictures of bumpers painted to match the car and it does give it a very sleek and sharp appearance. Methinks it is only when the bumper is allowed to fade and become dusty that it starts to make the car take on that rather unappealing 80's aesthetic ;)

On a side note, do you fine gents have any words regarding financing a used car? Originally I had planned to wait till spring to purchase one, but If a particularly stellar example of a pre-70's pops up it would seem expedient to snatch it if the price is good. Is financing a used car generally a poor idea, especially with a classic, or just as safe as buying a new car?

Many thanks, I think I've learned more about cars in the past few days than I have in my life!

Well, I might as well throw in a couple of coins while I'm waiting . . . for who knows what.
If you have $4000 to spend, a CB car with little rust is out of the question. If you know someone who knows someone and are in the right place at the right time you might be able to get a good RB car for that price. I've just missed two or three.
You can find any opinion you care to hear. At one end of the spectrum are owners who are perfectly content with their stock RB cars complete with the original ZS carb and restrictive manifold. At the other end are those with V8 conversions. In between there seems to be a range of perfectly happy owners, enjoying their cars. Some don't want their cars to run so they can repair, tinker, and improve forever. Working on the car is the whole point of ownership. Others just repair what's absolutely necessary because they love to be hurtling (or limping) down the road as often as possible. I often suspect most of the people on the RB end of the spectrum are not on this forum.
By the way, 4X the scrap value of a Camaro doesn't seem like much to get it on the road . . .
Good luck.

True enough, true enough. I think I've almost gathered enough information to figure out my purchase, now it's just a matter of waiting for the right one to pop up, I suppose ;)

As for the camaro, well: Pretty much the entire rear is rusted out, including half the cab. The engine needs serious repair (full gasket job, we think, among other things) and is half El-Camino making it harder to find parts. Electrical is close to shot, and the wheels are junk. It's at least 6 grand just to get it running, let alone the cost of the bodywork required. Add to the fact that its sat for 5 years in the middle of interior BC, and well, you can see why I'm hunting for an MGB instead of restoring the Camaro...

Just keep reading and asking questions. By following the path you have chosen, you will find the answers that "fit your needs the best"

http://www.mgexperience.net/article/performance.html

the link above has the various power mods

the chrome grill changed a couple of times. There was the "fish mouth" or recessed grill aound 1970, which has its ardent supporters (not me, it needs the plinth ) then in 73 the grill changed almost back again. Much like the earlier one except with black honeycomb mesh instead of vertical aluminium slats. I like the look. Along the same lines,lots of people substitute stainless mesh instead of the aluminium slats. Something I'm seriously looking at doing. since I am alas too far down the personalization path to worry about what's legit for which year. I like mark 1 fridge handle doors for example, so I put them on.

and Dan your concourse MG car looks fabulous. :D and there is no doubt that a concourse winning Rubber bumper car is better that a rusty old chrome bumper wreck. Would you change the bumpers on such a prize example of Rubberbumper-ness? of course not. Would you change an old beat up '75? well I did!

Well, kinda late to this party, and all the advice is spot on, so I will toss my hat into a different part of the ring.

I am working with the following assumptions:

You are a young guy with a part time and/or low paying job who does not have a lot of $$$. (Congrats on the raise!) You are going to depend on this vehicle for reliable transportation to get you to that job. Relying on a 35 year old car to get you to work everyday puts you into a small group of advisors on this board. I am not saying that it can't be done, but keep in mind that EVERY PART on that car is 35 years old and well beyond any lifespan that the designers could envision. The usual order of affairs when getting an MGB up to daily driver status is to suffer a period of fault finding/non-reliability while you get on top of worn and neglected aspects of the car. The irony of this sitution is that the less rust prone and better looking cars might be the worst offenders in this category; they are nice by virtue of not being driven much. Owners who do not drive the cars much also tend to neglect maintenance especially as their interest in the car dwindels.

So, lets take a step back. Yes rust is bad. However, maybe you should focus on less than pristine cars that are already used as either DDs or at least on a regular basis. This could include cars with some minor rust bubbles in the doglegs and/or front fenders. The MGBis quite well built and such a car will still provide years of safe driving and initiate you into the MG experience. Having a less than show quality car makes for more relaxed ownership. You don't fret about taking it to the mall or driving down a country gravel road. Note that people like Dan no longer feel comfortable driving their "Baby" when it rains! I am trying to picture the call to your boss "Can't make it today sir, it is raining and I don't want to get the paint wet!" (Sorry Dan, not REALLY making fun of you;))You will also be saving money that might better go into making the mechanicals as reliable as possible; after all, that is the real DRIVING experience of owning an MGB.

I had a think about the finances.
Keeping in mind that MGB's here are worth about twice, or even three time what they get in the USA. Canada, I don't know but proximity must effect things.
Years ago my Subaru was in the way out. Rusted out and clapped out. Subaru's work perfectly to 235K and then spontaneously implode apparently. Money was short then, I took a loan , bought the cheap '75 MGB then slowly changed it into a chrome bumper V8. The expensive way to do it of course, but that was the option at the time, and all that I knew. An MGB V8, over here is worth about 25 to 35 K. Economically sensible to that point. However I have since spent 15K on body work new paint and wheels, in addition to the 10K on V8 stuff. So I'm in about 35K. So less sensible now . However I could have bought a new car for that, back then, a boring plastic fantastic , that would be worth about half now. The MG would get about 30K if I sold. Essentially you are going to get most of it back and you can't say that about any other car on the market.
However all this is rationalization, MGB's are out of the ordinary, fun and money well spent. Life is short, you want one, pick the best you can get for what money you have and go for it!

That's exactly the rationale I'm going with Peter! 25k for an MGB in Australia? Wow, they really didn't export many at all there, that's nuts. The most I've seen here in Vancouver for a pristine '67 with 78k on the clock was $7.5k. It's still on offer, so I may wittle him down If I can get out to see it, hopefully.


Peter P: Thankfully, I managed to escape low paying drudgery just over a year ago, got in on the ground floor of a startup that's growing fairly fast. Only got raised to 24k/yr, but it's enough that I can consider spending a little to invest in a ride to get me around on my days off. Being stuck in the city for over 2 years with only Greyhound to get you anywhere else kills a persons soul, I swear. However, your advice concerning the rust/DD paradigm is of considerable interest. I had not considered that factor, and will definitely be doing so now when I go looking for the car. If I understood you correctly, the ones driven more often will have less chance of the engine blowing up, or the suspension turning into powder than the ones driven a month a year and then stored? Good to know, very good to know indeed.

Alas, given the climate I live in I think I'll be driving at least some rust no matter what I purchase. ;)

I can't believe how cheap they are over there.If it is indeed rust free I'll buy it!
Hope you get it.
My first MG (owned prior to the Subaru) was a '67. Steel dash, electric overdrive on third and fourth, loved it. It's got the really big delicate chrome bezel instruments and the row of chrome base toggle switches. Also that stylish chrome boot emblem that I liked so much that I put it on the current car. It was solid except for a few rust bubbles around the tail fins, which don't really matter. I sold it for exactly what I paid for it 12.5K. I was at Uni' at the time and needed $'s disparately as most Uni students do at some stage.
Non synchro on first gear, doesn't matter, I even liked that (just don't let anyone else drive it, I recollect a parent making repeated high pitched grinding noises despite all the "do-not-engage-1st-until-stationary" chanting coming from me).
The roof of that year is likely to be the pull apart frame sort. When/if you replace the roof consider changing to the later pram type push back roof and frame, frame-roof specific, but they bolt straight in. You can in fact alter the frame type to flip back, I did. you just make a simple hinge.

Peter, Gorgeous car. Tell me, is that a 75 that you retro'd back to a earlier look? Wow. :thumbsup:Thanks - and all in good fun - are my comments. Love the new interactive Experience site!

That's MG's for you, they get into your blood.
Good to drive, all very sportscar-y. You think you can stop anytime you want, then comes the day when you say to yourself, "I think I can fix this problem, make it better" and it WORKS! What ever it was, it is better, lots. This is the defining moment. The thin end of the wedge and like a crack addict , you are instantly hooked. ( Be warned Ryan) Whether it be concourse perfection you are pursuing or building your ultimate MGB. I rather also rather enjoy the passionate debate. It's like Ireland, the orange and green.
Here are some people with a really serious addiction
http://www.mgnuts.com/garages/
One guy has got an entire house for his MG's!, some even have carpet! and sad to say, I'm actually really jealous

Out of curiosity, would it require less modification to fit a V6 into a 1967 than a V8? And would the cost be cheaper as well? Or would both be about the same in terms of modifications and cost?

I think I'm pretty set on finding a 1967, now I'm looking at ways that I can allow it to hold it's own on modern highways. Superchargers run for about 3K, but V6's seems relatively cheap, hence my curiosity about whether it would cost less than the 10K quoted elsewhere to modify a CB to carry a V8.