Best adhesive for under-hood insulation???

Getting ready to finish the underside of the hood, and I have the pre-cut insulation (black vinyl on one side, "furry-stuff" on the other....
I am assuming (wow, that' s a big word), that the black vinyl side goes to the outside....
What adhesive is best , that can fight the heat, and gravity , under the hood?....I'm hoping for something that I can get locally...
Thanks
Edward

I brushed on regular old Contact Cement, let it set up and slapped it in there. It's held up great so far.

I had the hood off the car and upside down when I installed the insulation. It might be harder to get a good set if the hood is on the car.

3M spray on contact cement. X2 on the hood being off and upside down. No issues in over 4 years.

I'm whole hartedly with Steve but any contact cement should do. Apply to both surfaces, let tack and keep in mind there is no wiggle room once the sticky parts get together....measure thrice cut and place once. You only get the one chance on cut and place.

The hood is off, and I'm in the process of painting the underside....This will complete the engine compartment (including the engine/tranny rebuild)and paint, and I will be ready to start on the body exterior....
Spray on contact cement?....Which specific 3M trade name? (there are about a 100 different 3M adhesives)

Edward,
I use 3M Super Trim Adhesive part # 08090. I got it at my local NAPA store. It works great, but as Robert said "there is no wiggle room"

Dave

Some of the 3M sprays are clear rather than the yellow and work well in areas where you might have a corner exposed.

i would use contact cement also
but prefer brush on and would do two coats on each surface
i would also choose exterior grade contact cement
you might place long sticks or wax paper down,, then lay your insulation on top
when you have it situated right where you need it,, start pulling out the sticks or wax paper out one at a time so the pieces come together

:drinking:

Do a dry fit first and mark the edges. The insulation pad is slightly narrower than the space available and if you brush the cement right to the edge of the panel on the bonnet, you'll have the goo showing afterwards. Been there. Screwed that.

The 77 adhesive is not designed to take heat. The Super is for convertible tops, headliners, under hood liners, etc... In fact, it shows a vinyl roof installation on the label (or at least it used to). A brush-on contact cement would be safer than a spray-on cement, but I generally use the spray. Last time I bought it it was around $14 for a huge can.

The stuff I used was from Moss and called "Quality Heat Insulation Sound Deadener Contact Adhesive". It comes in a 14 oz spay can. It has worked fine for over two years now.

I used the spray 3M Heavy duty. Installed two years ago, no problems so far, even after a summer of +100 driving days (hot as hell).

i'm with Clay. if it'll stand up to the heat and poor roads in Mississippi, (i have a brother who lives there...works at Lemuria in Jackson) it should stand up to anything.

Jeff mentioned that 3M 77 is not designed for heat. I learned the hard way. 77 is all O'Reilly's had in stock when 3M 80 was called for on the instructions of a foam liner I bought a couple of years ago. I continually have problems over the manifold area of the engine compartment with the foam bubbling because of non sticking of the 3M 77 due to the heat.

Mark

Thanks all...
I have used the 77 before , and it's o.k. interior, but had no luck with it in heat situations, or with foam....
Picked up a can of 08090, and appreciate the cautions....I like the wax paper idea, and will use it.
Funny thing, is that I have done the wax paper with Formica counter tops, but never thought of using it here.
I will post a picture of the finished under-hood....as soon as things warm up a bit (29 degrees this a.m.). My "paint" garage has only portable heat, and that just doesn't cut it , below 50 degrees.

Edward,
I used PL polyurethane construction adhesive laid out in about a 2" x 2" grid. Allowed me to move the pads around until they were perfectly placed (unlike contact cements where you get one chance to get it right). Then I held them in place with wood shims tucked between the structural supports of the hood and the pad until the adhesive cured overnight. I was able to do it with the hood in place on the car, as well. Although since your hood is already off the car that's a non issue for you. That was 3 years ago and it's like the day I did it.