I am trying to bleed the brakes on my 74 Midget but things are not going well.The car sat up for 25 years and the lines were completely dry.I replaced the parts that needed replacing including the master cylinder and filled it with fluid.I got the front bled with no problem but after using the pump and hold method for an hour and a half on the rear alone I still dont have a drop of fluid back there.Is there anything I can do without buying any special tools to get the fluid to the rear brakes?I dont have an extra cap to rig a pressure device into to force it through the lines.
Brake bleeding problem
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MG Midget Forum: Brake bleeding problem
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I think the 74 1275's have the switch block like the 1500's. There is a switch block that the brake lines from the MC go into and the brake lines to the wheels go out from.
There is a brake failure safety built into that assembly. If the brakes fail in the rear, for instance, the slide shaft moves so that the front brakes will continue to work and visaversa. When shifted fluid will not go to the affected brakes.
I have found that the best way to get fluid to go through is to remove the switch from the switch block and check with a small screw driver to see how the shaft is positioned. The shaft inside the block has a rib in the middle that pushes in on the switch. As long as the switch is pushed in the light will not be lit on the dashboard.
In order for the fluid to get to the back brakes that rib will need to be in the middle.
I move the switch manually and then bleed the brakes. You may need to take that switch apart and clean it so that it works and doesn't stick.
Maybe someone else can explain it better.
In the moss catalog it is item #181-955
I see the switch block that you are talking about.I took the safety switch out but I cant see inside.I stuck a nail inside and cant feel anything.
Brian,
If the brake lines were dry and full of air I would do the following. First you need to bleed the brake that is farthest from the master cylinder first usually the rear left. Doing the fronts first is a waste of time. Open the connection at the rear left all the way and pump till you see a puddle under the car. Then bleed that one. Then the right rear and then the fronts. You need to push lots of air out of the system which will make the first the toughest.
Good luck,
Liam
59 bugeye
60 bugeye
57 mga
I found the problem.The rubber line that goes to the T at the rear axel is blocked.
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