Braking issue

So I have finally got the '72 GT running good, and have been doing little runs around town, and have encountered an odd problem. If I am cruising along, at about 25-30mph and come to a stop sign, I apply the brakes hard, I stop fine. Take off fine. If, on the other hand, I apply the brakes slowly, and slow to a stop, and just before I stop pull off the brake peddle completly, at least one wheel (back left, I think) locks up. It stays locked for about a minute or so, then lets me go. I am aware of the collapsing line problem, is this it? I am fairly sure I have that in the clutch as well. If so out of all of the lines Moss sells which ones are the best bargain?

Thanks,

Paul.

I think I would look at the wheel first. Pull off the recalcitrant drum and see if the springs are free. Maybe need the cylinder rebuilt - that is fresh rubber parts - I just did mine a week ago.

I assume they are adjusted.

Best guess would be new cylinders and hose while you are at it. Use a half can of brake cleaner on each side.

Far fetched though is the fact that many of the DIY persons put the brakes or springs on goofy. I would check that first.

Larry

Jim K Wrote:

tomkatb Wrote:

Paul - no - they are quite easy to rebuild.
However...
The bottom pistons on both rears on my '71 GT were seized - a liberal annointing with PB Blaster and tincture of time (plus a BFH and a crow bar) and they came loose. If they are seized, I would recommend removing them from hydraulic tube and the plate. I polished them up and put a little grease on the top of the pistons to minimize that from happening again in the near future. The rubber caps - on the last one I did, I discovered that if you turn the cap inside-out they pop right on! I almost pulled the other three off to do it again properly!
Again, except for the seized pistons, it was one of the easiest MG jobs I've done.

sweep Wrote:

The rear brake above is a passenger side. The drivers is a mirror image of it. Confusing. Note the brakes and their orientation.

Bleeding brakes is a pain. As such if I thought one of the cylinders was bad I would not try rebuilding it. Rebuilding is not always successful.

Larry

Chris - Don't let James see that picture our you'll never hear the end of it!!! :)

Paul

PaulP Wrote:

tomkatb Wrote: [
Bleeding brakes is a pain.
Larry
[/quote]

Bleeding brakes is easy, and takes less than half an hour. Did you know that BMC-BL recommends replacing (read - bleeding) brake juice (DOT3) every 2 (two) years? Who does that really (except me?)

Start from the longest run - R side rear > L side rear> R side front > L side front.
Takes about a pint - pump the brakes 10 times then check the reservoir.

I use a tube - (if you are or know someone in the nursing business) discarded Oxygen tubing with the end - attached to the bleed valve and placed into an empty container above the level of the brake master.

Open the bleed valve - 1/4 in the rear, 7/16 in the front - attach the tubing as noted (the "end" fits both sizes) - pump the brake as noted above - or stop when bubbles stop appearing and/or fluid is clear.

This is a simple one person job.