MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
Moss shows them as NLA (no longer available). What do people use for them? I was thinking about buying a piece of steel brake line and bending it and connecting it with a rubber vacuum fitting elbow.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Great idea Gary. When i put HS4s on my car i was looking for that as well. The original had a T fitting on the back carburetor side that tied it to the charcoal canister. If you bend a brake line, how would you do that? As soon as you do all the brain work for me, then i'll do the same to mine...:)-D
What year are you talking about? Early ones were fuel pipe bent so that the tube would go from the overflow down to the left front of the block. Both tubes were held there in a p clamp. Lou Allocco is considering manufacturing some of the later ones with the metal Y in it. I told him I didn't think there would be a market but....
Mine was piped with 1/4" copper right from Lowes. Looks like it belongs. I used rubber hose and clamps to attach the copper.
Gary,
I connected my vent lines to the charcoal canisters. My carbs are 1969 AUD265s and originally vented down to ground.
Frank
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=226
Well Moss may not have them but the sister company still lists as does MGOC - the MGOC ones look like my setup but mine's a '66 so yours maybe different but the M-E link says HS '68 - '72
http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_SPARES_INLET__MGB__24.html#l115
copper pipe as well --dead easy to bend and join with rubber hose ---clamp it solidly to avoid rattles
You can find these on e-bay, usually @ a very reasonable price.
Lately, I've had gas sometimes pouring out the overflow of my front carb (HIF). Otgher times it dribbles. Other times, often after driving a bit, it's dry. I'm left behind the wheel wondering if I'm going to have a fire.
Based on what I'm reading here can I connect a tube to connect the front overflow to the rear overflow? Neither is currentl;y connected to the hose that leads to the charcol cannister.
Jim
No. The late style has a pipe from each carb that joins into one pipe that then goes via hose to the cannister. Hooking the two carbs together with no exit will not work.
You have a front needle and seat that is hanging up or a float that is sticking for some reason. Solve the problem and you are good to go.
The original overflow pipes did just that. Overflowed fuel directly onto the ground. For some reason, ;), someone came up with the idea that wouldn't be allowed under the tightening emissions standards.
As mentioned, the later overflow pipes/hoses route to the emissions canister. In either case, if you have fuel exiting the vehicle through the original pipes or usually through the anti-run-on valve (due to the canister being connected to this and full of fuel), you've likely got a stuck needle or float.
My mech. likes to disconnect the overflow pipe. He really wants to remove the entire emmissions system but I want to keep it. By now the cannister would be full.
I'll have to investigate how to check the needle and float. Knowing very little about cars I'm a bit shy about digging in to deep, particularly the carbs.
Thanks for the replies.
Ahh.....I wouldn't recommend disconnecting the pipes. It's okay to remove the emissions system but make up overflow pipes like the early cars have. You need to have the fuel go somewhere if/when your floats stick open.
Overflowing to the open air isn't the most environmentally friendly but it's safe.
I had to do this on my 69 GT which a PO had installed HIF carbs with no charcoal canisters. Might even have a photo on the home computer.
Jim, don't be shy. We're here to help if you decide to get into your carbs. Good practice is to get yourself an old carb, a manual and take it apart.
Thanks, Chris and Simon. I do have a video about rebuilding carbs. I'll take a look at that. Otherwise, it's back to the Haynes manual. Unless, the mech. want to check his work. He did rebuild these just last May and I have little mileage since then.
Is it something he can do easily, perhaps in my driveway instead of after dragging it back to his shop, which is a distance away.
Jim,
Based on the year of your car and the fact you've got the emissions system in place, I'm assuming you've got the HIF carbs installed. The float chamber is located on the bottom of the carb so they have to come off to repair.
These can be removed in your driveway and repaired as necessary on a bench, either at your place or your mechanic's. You can do them on your kitchen table if you dare. ;)
Excellent observation, Gary. Hence my "if you dare" waiver. ;)
