MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
I need to tighten the nut behind the dash that secures the choke cable in place (the turn-to-lock cable) and I REALLY don't want to have to loosen or remove the dash to get to it. I'm thinking I can build a wrench to get up in there while laying on my back (glutton for punishment). I can SEE the nut, but only approximate the wrench size I'll need. Anyone have one out and can fit a wrench to it for me. Oh yeah: '68 B.
Thanks
Tom
Can't remember the SIZE of the nut is but I am sure that someone will chime in with it.
Use a "throw away" open end wrench to make your tool.
Grind or file away the opening to the correct hex size. Then chunk the business end up in a vise and bend the tool very near to or at the jaw of the wrench. If necessary apply torch heat.
Make the bend at about forty degrees or so.
Cut the shank off to about an inch or an inch and a half.
Uese your grinder or file to round off all of the sharp edges.
This will make a tool that will both fit into the confined area and still offer enough leverage to tighten the nut.
To get to the back side of the dash remove the heater knob directly below the pull handle. There is a very small lounger accessabel through a small opening in the side of the knob. Depress the plunger with a small Allen key while pulling on the knob.
Use a 5/8" deep socket to remove the hex nut up in the opening exposed by the knob removal.
Use a small bent coat hanger wire or you Allen key to fish out the two washers. Don't drop the washers, or the nut for that matter, as you will never find them again.
Grip the bottom of the dash with your left hand and at the same time grasp the back side of the heater control mechanism with your right.
Simultaneously pull outward on the dash and pull forward and down on the mechanism. It will fall out and down. Do not disconnect the cabling.
Reach up through the opening with your right hand and locate the back side of the choke cable house.
Once you have the "feel" of the situation, go back in with your new wrench and tighten away.
Jack
I would remove cable and loosen nut visible a couple of turns at least.
Now you can reach behind and screw the back nut by hand foward towards dash at least several turns.
That should tighten everything when you put outside nut tight ..
I had this out recently - even had a spare nut - but now can't find it for the life of me. My guess is it was 11/16" or 19/32", but can't be sure. Sorry!
Just took mine out 3/4' spot on advice about removing the heater control. I used a stubbie wrench but that wasn't as good as the sugestion offered up. Bill
Seems like the last time I tightened that nut I removed the heater control to make a little more
room. I used a stubbie wrench as Bill mentioned. I have bigs hands, The factory workers must
been small handed.
Clifton
Bill's right. 3/4". I cut the head off an extra 3/4" open end wrench leaving about 1" of the shaft.
I leftr mine finger tight after replacing the whole cable, that was three years ago. Still hanging in there with no problems...
Just received new cable from Moss. 3/4" nut. Haven't got the old one out yet. Any hints to thread the new one in?
Bill
I cut out the side of a box end 3/4" wrench (just enough to get around the choke cable. I think it was Rich from Vancouver who cut the side out of a socket and welded a little handle to the opposite side of the cutout. Works like a hot dam!
I just replaced mine. I started by dislocating my hand and trying to remove, no luck. I then removed the glove box, then the air vents...boom. Plenty of room. I hand tightened it, but still want to use an open-ended spanner on it (it would be a shame for it to come loose after it goes back in). Great post, now I know I need a 3/4". Good luck with yours. May your knuckles not bleed as much as mine.
Russ