Chrome Protection

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Nov 29, 2009 13:41:11
hoover74gt

Hi everyone, first post,
I'm about to put the GT to sleep for the winter. I keep her in a cement floor garage, unheated, cloth covered.
Any suggestions how to keep the bumpers from starting to pit?

Nov 29, 2009 13:45:03
Steve S

The main thing is to make sure it's clean when put away. I use Blue Magic polish which leaves a protective coating behind, but I have not tested this in a wet climate during extended storage. Perhaps a wipe of WD-40 would help, if you're having corrosion issues during the Winter.





Nov 29, 2009 13:50:41
tedjr

Hi Todd,
Welcome to the forum.
I spray my chrome with WD40. I also put a tarp down on my cement floor
and put a few scented dryer sheets inside in addition to a couple of
mouse traps and containers of moth balls underneath the
car (tends to keep the rodents at bay).

(click on image to enlarge/hosted offsite)
[URL=http://img239.imageshack.us/i/carcoverzd4.jpg/][/URL]

tedjr

Nov 29, 2009 13:52:53
mowog1

I spray the engine compartment and all external chrome with WD40.

Nov 29, 2009 14:12:51
kirks-auto

I use a rotisserie and allow the blow by oil to work its way to the top....


Seriously, do as Ted suggests and put a vapor barrier beneath. Make sure your cover breathes...the consequence to avoiding these suggestions will lead to moisture being trapped within the car or underneath. The WD sounds easy but a good paste wax would also work on the shiny side anyway...

Nov 29, 2009 14:35:48
hoover74gt

Thanks for the tips! I always wax everythig before I put it away. Would letting the wax "unrubbed off", not polished help?
Todd

Nov 29, 2009 14:42:42
kirks-auto

Yes...as in thicker is better....

Nov 29, 2009 14:50:11
gow589

WD 40 is closer to a cleaner then a protectant. It's a good way of removing any protectant and causing more corrosion.

Nov 29, 2009 14:55:04
kirks-auto

I believe I see the seeming incongruity...but WD40 is kerosene based or as the Brit would say Parafin based. Parafin is a pretty stout stuff and I am pretty sure when WD40 evaporates it leaves that stuff as a deposit. Fishing buddy once warned NOT EVER to use WD40 in fishing reels due to the parafin later on...

Nov 29, 2009 14:59:07
Steve S

Todd, keep in mind that some waxes become very difficult to remove when left caked on for too long!

Nov 29, 2009 18:05:17
fordgt

Quote: "
Todd, keep in mind that some waxes become very difficult to remove when left caked on for too long!"


and some even worse than that!

Nov 29, 2009 19:33:17
oily-hands

Quote: "
WD 40 is closer to a cleaner then a protectant. It's a good way of removing any protectant and causing more corrosion."


x2.

WD40 is a very good cleaner on all kinds of surfaces and doesn't leave any residue. I'll qualify that, the WD in the UK doesn't. It may be a different formula elsewhere.

Nov 29, 2009 19:41:50
canuck

This is not an aswere to your question, but it worked for many classic cars that we stored in a snug barn in Canada. The floor was wooden and suspended about the ground. The drafts could go through and under. The cars were covered, and really stood up well. I was thinking, when I move back ro Canada, to suspend a wooden floor in my future garage.
David

Nov 29, 2009 19:54:10
WannaBMG

Early in my career, I worked for a company that manufactured a direct competitor product to WD40 as well as the the other flavors now available.I did the lab work for continuous improvement and upgrade development of our product, if necessary.
Typical of these products would be a less than 5% red rust on cold rolled steel in 100% relative humidity and 120 degrees F. after 100 hours exposure.
The products typically would contain a water displacing solvent, surfactants and a film forming sulfonate which left a rust preventive microfilm behind.
WD40 would be fine for your application, however wipe it off your paint if overspray occurs. It can cause a lift or swell in the paint surface with time.

Nov 29, 2009 21:46:21
comart45

Paste wax. Johnsons paste wax for wood floors.

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