Clacking Noise

Alright, so a video is worth a thousand words, can you please take a look at this video and try to guess what this noise is? Particulary the clacking noise. I'm no expert at all, but it sounds like a little more than valve noise to me?

http://s98.photobucket.com/albums/l275/Astroguy12s/?action=view&current=PICT0412.flv

Story of the engine is it's a freshly rebuilt '71 18gk with a 72 head. Got the brit-tek full rebuilt kit, had everything balanced, etc.

The motor now has a little over 1000 miles on it. Had the valves professionally adjusted at 300 miles, I just re-adjusted them prior to this video and it didn't alter the noise. Please tell me I'm just being paranoid?

The speakers with my computer are not audiophile quality so all I can say is it sounds remarkably like my roadster! Seriously!

Sounds just OK. Just a bit more clacky than normal.
Check you plugs that exhaust sounds like the mix is a tad rich.

We had the Green B’s 18GK engine just rebuilt. I would like to compare notes on the break-in procedure.

A few questions:::::::::::
What method did you use to bed the cam in? Did you use special cam lube?
How have you been running the engine in?
What oil and filter are you using?
Did you have the machine shop assemble the engine?
How is the oil pressure?
Is the ignition set at 10 BTC at 1000 RPM vacuum disconnected and plugged? How much total advance are you getting?
Did the rockers get centred on the valves? If so was it with the valve in the middle of its' travel?

Hi Ryan,
Jim has asked some very good questions with his post.
I can only add these,

What cam did you use?
How is the oil feed to the rockers and valve gear?
If vey low:
Was the rear cam bearing aligned right on (hole for oil feed)?
Did the rear rocker pedastle oil hole line up ith the hole in head?

and was the timing chain tensioner released after install?

Mind you the audio did not seem to loud to me either.

Cheers Ric

something flagged a thought.

there was a post in the last few days where there was a mismatch of rocker pedestal and head. oil passages did not line up. result, lotsa noise. search for it and consider...

Well I'll be honest with you, I wasn't involved during the rebuild procedure. My father rebuilt the engine, but passed away just prior to be being finished so I finished the job by getting the engine dropped in to the car and took it from there.

So from what I can remember and to answer some of the questions above:

-To bed in the cam, I believe I ran the engine for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm (I think). I used a straight 30 weight non-detergent oil, however I didn't put in any additive to boost the zddp, if I did it over again I would do add the additive.
-I broke the engine in by keeping it under 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles. I *think* my father rebuilt it using the procedures outlined by this Dr. Doolan fellow, and that was what he recommended.
-The oil I'm using now is Valvoline 20w50 VR1 racing oil, with the NAPA 1068 Gold Filter.
-Machine shop did not assemble the engine.
-Oil pressure is very high, idling around 700-800 rpm I'll have about 60psi pressure. When the engine is loaded it's around 80-90 psi. I think the high oil pressure has a lot to do with the uprated spring in the oil relief valve provided in the Brit-tek kit.
-Right now I'm running about 12 degrees BTDC at 1000rpm, however I'm having another issue with timing that I've asked about in this thread so I'm not 100% sure my timing is correct: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,575411
-The cam is the stock cam from the brit-tek kit.

Questions I'm not able to answer:
-I'm not clear on what you mean by rockers centered on the valves, can you explain more?
-Adjusting the valves, there were visible pools of oil around the valve gear. Is there anyway to check if the valves are receiving sufficient oil?
-I don't know if the rear rocker pedestal lines up with the head, is there a way I can check?
-Timing tensioner, is this just removing the timing cover and checking if the tensioner is removed?

Mac, I did find the thread you were talking about here: http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,572358,572473#msg-572473, I'll be honest I'll have to do my research to understand what they're talking about with the offset/inline oil feed.

I was the one with the mismatched head and rocker pedestal oil passages. If neither the head or the rocker arm was changed out, this should not be an issue. But some heads are drilled in the center (under) the rear rocker arm pedestal and some are off set to the side. The oil passage in the rocker pedestal must line up with the hole in the head. The only way to check is to drain the coolant, loosen the head bolts in order and remove the rocker arm and turn it over.

My symptoms were NOISY valve clatter when the rockers were correctly adjusted.

The area on the rocker that contacts the valve should be centred on the valve stem.
This should be checked with the valve in the middle of its travel.

If you have pools of oil on the top of the head it probably isn't the rocker oil feed problem. Ususally the top will be almost dry if the oil can't get there except by splashing up through the pushrod holes. If you run the engine with the valve cover off then you can see whether the oil is getting up there. Rev it up a little and you should have a mess to clean up.
Question: Did you replace the rocker shaft and or have the rockers resurfaced? They can increase the noise and also make it hard to get a consistant valve adjustment.