Clutch will not disengage ('74 Midget 1275)

I've recently bought my Midget out of storage after 4.5 years and am in the process of getting it back on the road. Leaving it standing for this time seems to have caused a couple of problems.

Problem number 2 is that the clutch will not disengage. There appears to be the required movement in the pedal, master and slave cylinders but something is stopping it realeasing.

I have managed to make a little progress by trying to start the car in 4th with the clutch depressed. After a few attempts the engine was able to turn and the car started no problem, however I am still unable to change gear with the engine running

Any siggestions gratefully received

Many thanks
James

Put in gear, switch on, and crank it. (Make sure nothing is in front of the car). 4.5 yrs is a long time. Cranking in gear will free it!

Tried that and it will now start OK whlist it is in gear, but once the engine is running it is not possible to select a gear

It initially sounded like your clutch disc was stuck. This can happen when sitting a long time. Surface rust can "glue" the disc to the pressure plate and flywheel. But now it sound like your seal has failed in either the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Have someone press on the clutch peal while you observe from underneath if the push rod on the slave cylinder moves when the pedal is depressed. It's not an uncommon problem from sitting either. You may need to bleed or rebuild the hydraulics.

Thanks Gerard,

Slave cyclinder is moving OK, although maybe its not enough? Will try overhauling the slave and master cylinders next. While I'm at it might upgrade replace the flex hose as well

Had a similar problem on mine early last summer. Turned out the throw out bearing broke. When clutch was depressed the rod moved ok. I think there is a cover you can remover and peek inside to see what is happening when clutch is pressed in. I have a 1974 1275 engine

Bob Gilfert

New here. Clutch slave let me down, out there naturally. Replaced on site. Learned a few things. Worked good enough to take a few rides. Then replaced master in comfort of garage. Seemed to go pretty well. After bleeding many, many times, can't get it into any gear. Tried vacuum, more bleeding, same ting. Drag, as it is warm enough in Wi. in February to cruise. Help Wanted.

If you haven't fixed it yet. The midget's clutch system has no margin for error, or you'll only partaily disengage the cluth. Check for worn clevis pins at where the pedal activates the master cylnder, and at the other end where the push rod connects to the throwout bearing fork. I have had a lot of play build up there from these being worn over the years.

x2 on everything thats been said. If it turns out to be the bearing, you may wish to covert to a roller bearing.
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/diy-roller-throwout-bearing.html

I went through a number of graphite throwout barings on my '74. I did have one that lasted for a long time. I think graphite can come in different hardneses, so that might explain why one wore so fast, and the other didn't. In my last rebuild I noticed that the remanufacted pressure plate had the part that the throwout bearing presses againt re-surfaced. It was a poor job in that you could still see the cutter marks on it. I thought that the rough surface could wear down the graphite and shorten the life. I polished that surface before I installed the clutch. People might want to look carefully at their new pressure plates for this issue. I can't tell you if this worked or not, since the car only has about 15,000 miles since the rebuild. Certainly building your own roller throwout bearing gets around the premature wearing issue.

Overhauled master and slave cylinders and all is well again in the clutch department :)