Crap!! Broken Leaf Spring

Well, while doing my annual pre-driving weather inspection i come accross this broken leaf spring on the pass. side. There is some $$ i wasn't planning on spending.

Ken

With everything I have read and heard about the current crop of repro springs I would be tempted to source a good set of originals rather than buy new.

This sucks, Ken, but at least the job itself isn't all that hard.

I got the full rear-end kit from Brit Tek, for what it's worth. The quality was good, and 1 year and 8,000 miles later it's still nice and tight.

Can't it just be clamped? Hard to tell what happened from the picture.

Paul

I think clamping is just a temp fix at best. it is snapped off right at the plate. The Brittek package looks good. Just wondering how much shipping would be. I think it would be a pretty heavy item.

Where is the best place to place my jack stands, while i take everything out? Under the rails on each side, where i place my front ones??

pgawan2be Wrote:

Ken get that bad boy off there and call me .My spring guy can replace the broke one for less than $20 cdn

I vote for repairing what you have! That way you know the ride height will be proper and the handing even better with the springs leaned up and lubricated between each leaf. Get a replacement (new or used) for the broken one and go from there!

Can you repair just the one side or should i have that top leaf replaced on both sides?

Only replace what's broken - especially if you can find a good used one to replace it. If they provide a new top sring that's thicker than the original, then you'll need both replaced or its gonna handle funny.

Or just go to Fred McEachern. Got a pair from him a couple of years ago. Everything was good. :)

See my avator pic at left for ride height.

Replace both side if one broke the other is just as weak! All the Shi^#^$^% rolls down the spring and sits on the axle mount and weakens them right where you have a brake. Change em both Just the top leaf only and remove all the plastic noise buffers aka crap collectors at the same time.!!
Cambridge Spring great work for cash deals too

@@##$ Bolts. I have finally managed to get the nuts off the front and rear of the springs, on the drivers side. Neither on the pass side. 7 of 8 of the nuts off of the U bolts. Lots of PB Blaster, and now let it sit overnight, and hopefully they will come off tomorrow.


Ken

Man, that looks familiar. Sorry for the bad luck and IMHO I agree with the repair votes. All of the replacement roadster springs I ever bought (Moss) sagged badly. I finally installed "uprated/lowered" GT F/R springs on my '66 roadster (Moss) and they didn't sag much plus they settled evenly as did the F/R Moss standard GT on the GT.

How the heck do i get the rear eye bolts out????

Ken

You'll probably have to drive them out with something, assuming you got the nuts off. Once upon a time with a '69 GT I cut them off with a hack saw....that was some work.

OK. Cut off the bolts. The garage smells reaaally nice now...

Now that the springs are out, i laid them side by side and the pass. side one, the one that broke, has less arch on it and is slightly longer. when i press on them to make the same arch, the pass side spring is about half an inch to an inch shorter?

Before i go and see about repairing it, is this right or should i get a new (newer) set?

Ken