Dumb wheel adapter (spacer) question

I want to use a 3/4" spacer on the car to get the passenger side rear wheel where I want it. Based on feedback from you guys a wheel adapter is the way to go. I have the stock wheel stud spacing but I don't know what it is in terms of measurements, or how to measure it. On the wheel adapter website it lists adapters for 4 to 4 (100, 130mm, etc.), 4 to 4.25 (108, 114mm, etc.), etc.. Can you tell me which one do I need? Here is the website...

http://www.ezaccessory.com/4_Lug_Adapter_s/43.htm

I actually do have a spacer that fits in terms of bolt pattern for both my axle and the wheel but it is too thick by about 1/4" (my tire may rub if the suspension is fully compressed). I took it to the machine shop to get it shaved down but they noticed that by doing so would either remove most of the knurl 'lip' for the wheel studs and/or not make the nut used to secure the adapter to the axle sit flush. Does that make sense?????

This axle conversion has been such a gong show....

Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Chris

Can you get a set of shorter studs that will make up the slack of the 1/4" or knock the studs out and add longer ones through the axle and the bare trimmed adapter?

Where did the offset come from on the one side?

Hey John,

It's not the stud length that's the issue - I can cut them down. But the nut size that is used to attach the spacer to the axle. If I cut down the spacer, the nut would not sit flush with the spacer face which means the wheel would not bolt on correctly.

I'm going to take another look at my wheel spacing. Maybe this 1" spacer will be okay. If not I need another option.

The offset is a result of the person who built the axle convincing me that a narrow axle is better because he had built 'so many axles and that was the way to do it'. I should have listened to my gut feeling on this but some people are pretty convincing when you are unsure of what to do...

What you need is 4 x 4.5" (114.3mm) for a std MGB bolt pattern.
http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_4_Lug_4_5_To_4_Lug_4_5_p/4450-4450k.htm

Thanks Graham. Looks like the smallest width they sell them is 1" so I think I'll try to make the adapter I have work....

If you decide to go through the machining process to reduce spacer thickness, have the machine shop create a wheel hub pilot on the adapter rather than just reducing thickness - a hub piloted wheel runs truer than a stud piloted one.

Very good point Graham. I have to open up the inside diameter of the spacer I have to fit my hub anyway so I might as well make it a snug fit!

Chris,

You could also use ones from H&R. In 20mm thick you could use the slip on type (DRS) as speced for some Nissan and Honda cars. For the 25mm thickness and up they move towards the bolt on type (DRM). One issue might be that these are hub centric but they are the best quality on the market.

Mike

http://hrsprings.com/scripts/appguide.php?Mode=Make+Guide&SubMode=FindTrak&MakeID=29

Chris, Are you going to use the spacer on just one side? If so, the centering of the spring pads is the problem. the pinion can be off a bit as long as the driveshaft doesn't hit. By centering the axle you can use a thinner spacer on both sides.

Sounds like now would be an ideal time to find a Ford 8" and have it narrowed to the appropriate length..

This is a new axle that was shortened so I'm not about to start over again. Unfortunately I trusted the opinion of the person who did the narrowing and ended up not getting what I wanted so now I am left with making it fit with the adapters. Lesson learned as they say...

Chris, did you catch Jim's suggestion? From the earlier posts it sounds like you just need the spacer on one side. If that's the case, you might be able to shift the axle to that side by cutting the spring hangers off and replacing them shifted a 1/2 in or so. That would let you use thinner slip on spacers on each side.. Might sound like a hassle, but it'll be done before you know it.

If that won't work because you need the extra 3/4" on both sides already, another option might be to sell the wheels/tires and replace with wider (that option comes with a silver lining of better traction).

Last idea - and I have no idea if this one is really viable (I'm sure others will say), but if there's enough material on the wheels, maybe you can have the 1/4" milled off the hub mounting surface of the wheel instead of the spacer to enable use of the 1" adapter style spacers?

I know you're frustrated - I went through some major frustrations with my rear suspension too. It took me several elapsed months but once it's behind you tend to forget about it.

^^^^^^ what he said !!!! how about relocating the spring hangers to locate the diff in the body.
I had to narrow the 9' in my car 5/8 per side due to I layed out the rear flares from the passenger side not knowing the axle was favoring the driver side, and I had only that much room of splines to take off the custom axles I already had built years before, whoops?

Thanks for the suggestions Jim, Rob and John. That makes sense so I will think about doing that. But maybe next year because I'm pretty mentally drained with trying to make this setup work for the time being...