Engine Bay Paint/Engine Refresh Project

Ok! Here I go. I have already removed the hood completly because it would block my garage lights if tied back. I have disconnected the battery, removed the carbs and intake, and drained the oil. I want to remove the radiator but I know when I remove that bottom hose, green stuff will go everywhere. My question is, if I wanted a drain plug, where do you suppose the best place is to drill a hole. If I drill a hole on the bottom this would allow me to NOT make a mess in my floor. Thanks Mikek

If you put a pan like you use to oil drain under the hose and loosen the bottom hose and then run a screwdriver between the hose and the spout until the green stuff begins to flow. Control as necessary. If want to add a drain to the radiator you would want it near the lower hose but to the engine side not the bottom where it would be exposed to road debris.

Mike, if you look at Mark I radiators, they have a drain at the bottom. Here's a photo...

Seems it would be very easy to drain in that position, I like it. Thanks Steve

Just put 2nd coat on my engine, waiting on new rocker shaft before reassembly. Installing new Peter Burgess head.

Take your radiator to a radiator shop and they will properly put one in for you for very little money.

I don't know if they have rad shops in North Pole Alaska but I like Lee's idea FWIW. Measure twice and tap once...make sure you have access when the job is done.
From the pic it looks like a nice job coming along! Congrats...great looking gaitors on the steering rack and I see you have the better quality poly bushings....Nice to see you doing a first rate job with first rate parts! :thumbup:

I don't know if this is original but, mine is on the forward face of the radiator, about 2" inboard of the end.
Nearly opposite the radiator outlet hose.

I know it would probably be easier to remove the engine with the head on but............I just had to remove the head to inspect it and look at the cylinder walls. There was minimal carbon build up"in my opinion" and no obvious cracks. The cylinder walls had no scoring and there was minimal movement of the piston inside the cylinders. I will gauge them though.Is there a way to determine if this head has original valves, seats, and guides? I wanted to rebuild the head but if it has already been updated, I see no reason to do it again. Thanks, Mikek

If guides are magnetic or look like brass that would be the fact of the matter.
carbon ring at the top does not tell you the ovalation of the bore...fact #2
If the guides are brass looking and non magnetic I would opine you are OK.
Cylinder taper is another matter and attends to bottom end condition. Rod check with plasta-gauge is the easy way to check...

My car has already gotten hangar rash. I jacked the drivers side up to loosen the exhaust bolts. Passenger door wasnt fully closed and swung open hitting my tool box. This made the best looking 1 inch scratch you ever saw in my paint. I was SOO PISSED, I almost wanted to get rid of the car. Said every word just short of cursing jesus. Took about a 20 min break and Im ok now,haha. Mikek

Traveled 3 times to LA area to buy the car of my dreams....covered headlight XK E type. Drove it home to back to Hollywood, tightened a screw, stuck the screw driver in my right rear pocket....went on to carry on. Got back in the car and punched a hole in a freshly restored seat......PIZZZZZZZZED MAX....
I go over it 15 years later....DUMB X DUMB....sheet happens....:thumbup:

WOW! I could see why it took 15 years, haha. Like MGB's dont already need enough fixed. Both my doors are shut now. Mikek

Here is a pic of the head right off the block. Pic is of # 3 & 4. I dont see anything to obvious. # 1 & 2 look just the same. Im trying to decide what to do with the head, at least at a minimum. It does look pretty gunky in the water ports. Mikek

Update on the engine bay respray job. This is not fun! I cant wait to get the engine bay sprayed so I can start on the engine. It really sucks here in Alaska because I cant take it to a local car wash to spray it down. This means that everything will be by hand.........very time consuming. Any way I decided to go with a single stage Nason paint. Im just not sure how to get ALL the brake fluid out of the cracks and such. Next pic will show it in primer, hopefully. Mikek

What color is it????

Its Called bronze yellow. The Dupont color is DUP 8581. When the guy at the store entered it in his computer it came up as, Rover 1969 Bronze Yellow. The car was sprayed with base and clear but the engine compartment will be a single stage.

Mikek

Mike. Think about also doing a clear coat.

A little while ago, I did some major collision repairs on a fairly new vehicle. When I repainted under the hood, I used base and clear. The clear coat was very easy to shoot and laid down very smoothly. The clear coat offers really good protection to the color coat, so from now on I'm going to be clear coating whenever I do an engine compartment. It should make oil and antifreeze spills a lot easier to clean up.

kelvin

How about drilling a small hole in the hose, with a pan underneath. Also at the Home Depot they have cement mixing plastic pans that are large enough to not miss when taking the hose off, they measure about 2' X 3' and are about 8" tall, it fits under the car OK.

Just wanted to update the thread. The engine bay is about ready for primer and then off to the paint shop. I also have been working on the engine rebuild just to give myself a break for the sanding and cleaning. I will post a pic after the paint is on. Mikek

Almost ready for paint.....YEA! Im so sick of sanding, haha. Im ready to get the engine rebuild going, but thats gonna take me probably 2 months at least, if im lucky...... Later, Mikek

More primer. I went ahead and sprayed some epoxy primer to seal it up. I kinda ran short on primer but I think I got the important spots. Paint will be on it by the weekend, I will post the finished results. Mikek

Looks great Mike. You must have a nice, warm workspace!

Mike
Looking forward to seeing your new Bronze Yellow paint. Are you going base/clear on the body? My car is this color and it's almost ready for paint.
Mike

After!!!

Mike...that looks great! Nice work!

About ready to start front suspension reassembly...still waiting on a few parts. I'll post before and after pics in a while...thanks for your help along the way!

Just updating the thread for those who may be following. Takin my time and reinstalling stuff. Waiting on engine parts and the machine shop. Will post again soon. Mikek

Just updating the thread. Hope to get engine back in by the end of next month, but not in a big hurry. Looking to get it all together by the end of April. Then I can repaint the areas on the body that cracked here a few weeks ago. Then on the road in May. Thats it for now. Mikek

I just wanted update the thread. I havent posted to it in a while because I have been asking to many other questions in other threads,haha. Here are a few of pics of my engine, head, and crank. Nothing special about it except that I can finally start on the rebuild. It been bored .040" over, crank .010" under, all new seats installed and valves reground. Going with the stock cam with twin SU's. Not a racer engine or really even a daily driver so it should out live me. Im just doing alot of reading figuring were to start. I am open to recommendations / Links on the reassembly. I will continue to post pics as I progress, hopefully it will help someone else out in the future. Mikek

Another...

and another

You just gotta love clean engine parts.:spinning:

Isn't that nice!! Like butterscotch candy... well done Mike

Looks great Mike I will be there soon my self I hope. Keep the pictures coming and the information on your engine rebuild I want to do that also but have never rebuilt and engine. You guys give me the confidence and information to keep going, so keep it up! .
Paul

Just updating. I now have the crank and pistons installed. Everything went together well. Made sure to turn everthing 360 after TQ each main and rod cap. Crank turns by hand with some slight resistance. Made sure the front of pistons were to the front, oil holes on rods towards cam, and all ring gaps measured in cyl and staggered. I used CRC black assembly lube. Light oil on cyl walls and piston rings. Only thing is, I dont have a dial guage to check crank endfloat. I did order and use new thrust washers. Thanks for looking. Mikek

and another. =)

Just updating....I have now installed all new brake lines and hoses, rebuilt the clutch master cyl, and replaced the brake master. Replaced clutch line also. Bending lines is not fun! The engine is together for the most part. I took my time putting on the front and rear plates.....along with those Damn cork gasket strips ( that Im sure will leak). Followed the instuctions for the Permetex Ultra Black to the T. Taking the flywheel in to be resurfaced, picking the radiator up from the shop today. I still have to install the head and rocker assy. When its all together I will paint the engine ( any suggestions on type/ brand paint?) I will post more pics before the engine goes in. Thanks all for the help during this. Mikek

fantastico!! molto bene mi amice!! Bravo!!

Haha, I hope so too. That would be a RPITA to remove the rods and pistons. Im gonna have to double check now. Mikek

Wow! That looks good! Your engine should be proud to sit in there. Great job!

What black paint did you use for your underhood components?

Yours Truly,
Sam

Joe. My rods use a 12 point nut for connection. I think my local shop told me that because Im guessing other engines do face taht way....not sure. I should have looked at my dissasembly pics I guess. Thanks again very much. I will change that this week and orient holes AWAY from cam, haha. Mikek

Just updateing the thread....almost ready for the first start...Mikek

Ok ladies and gents............she started. Had some slight issue with the carbs, but its a purrrin......Holding about 65psi at idle and no leaks ......so far, haha. Im gonna look over everything one more time and adjust a few things. Will post updates and pics soon. Mikek

Looks awesome, very nice job! Where in Ak are you? I grew up in Eagle River and Palmer/Wasilla area

And Done!!! Hope this motivates all...because I am honestly almost out of it. Its been a long process, but worth it. Mikek

Oh yea, Gotta have a before pic...

Very Nice!!!

Really beautiful

Looking good,Mike! I can't wait to get to the same stage that you are at.
John