Engine Hoist to Engine

I'm at a point that my Bentley book says to use the Hoist. Where do you lift from on the engine?

Mick M.

I personally lifted my engine and gearbox out as a unit and used nylon rope slung twice around the front of the engine just behind the front plate and twice around the rear of the engine just forward of the rear plate. These were looped up to my engine lifting hoist.

Words of caution.
Ensure that the rope is rated to about double the load that you are lifting. Make sure that nothing is going to move and don't get under it.
In the words of Eric Marshall "Safety Fast"

Russ

I have an Tilt Lift as suggested by Twig I think. I know there are lifting points on the engine. I just don't know where they are.

Mick M.

I used the rocker cover bolts with a piece of angle iron to keep the bolts from bending, then attached the hoist to the angle iron.

Remove the rocker cover and set it aside.

Place a chain over the top of the engine and slip a link down over one of the studs that the rocker cover was fastened to. Use a chain with links that are as substantioa as possible but that will allow enough clearance for the removed stud/nut to pass down inside it as it is screwed fully home to secure the link. You should also include the thick washer to help keep the link from riding up over the hex of the nut.

Repeat this on the back stud leaving about 18 or 20 inches of slack in the chain to attach to the balance beam.

BTW: As I recall there are some aftermarket replacement nuts out there that are incorrectly machined and will fail under this lifting load. It is unlikely that you have them but if you know that you do, either replace them with some good OEM parts or use some 3/8 nuts and hardened washers to do the job. I have pulled about a zillion B power units using this method and have never had a stud fail so don't worry about them.

It is you call whether to pull the engine alone or the whole enchilada, and you will get several opinions here, but I prefer to yank the whole thing.

BTW: Disconnect the hood support strut if it has one and run a rope from the spring latch back over the top of the car and tie it off on the rear bumper. This way you can have the hood almost vertical without actually removing it.

Before you start I suggest that you soak the fool out of the down-pipe-to-manifold nuts and studs with the best penetrating oil that you can get your hands on. And then, when you go to undo the nuts take very special care to keep from wringing the studs off. If they do break though it isn't the end of the world. The broken stud CAN be removed but I suggest a visit to your local welding/machine shop, manifold in hand, to get the bugger out. When you go back together get six new BRASS nuts and use them instead of steel ones.

End of rant...sorry. LOL

Jack

Jack, you are the man. I understand what you told me.
I am pulling the Engine and Transmission together. I assume thats what you mean by enchilada. I have already removed the Hood (Bonnet) per Bentley instructions. The down-pipe-to-manifold nuts are loose, but not removed yet. I thought I would have to spray them but didn't.
You seem to end a lot of your stuff with "End of rant" but believe me, I read every word you write. I've also been to your web site. My wife and I love what you do.
You're an Automotive Poet and an Artist.
Thanks for your help.

Mick & Susan

Aw pshaw !!! LOL

Please have your wife write a letter to my wife outlining your opinion. ;-)

Jack

And your a funny guy.

Mick M.

I always jack up the rear of the car and put on stands to keep from having to angle the engine/tranny so much.

I use a hook on my hoist and put it directly on the rocker shaft (between #2 and 3) when i am pulling the engine alone. (which I do more often than not).

Saw Huffaker team do this 35 years ago and saw how well balanced the lump was and...
Hasn't caused any damage to the shaft that I've seen.

For pulling the whole mess, with an Oberg, I use an alternator mount on front and rear exhaust manifold screw. (I use cap screws for the front and rear ex manifold mounts instead of a stud).

I used the rear-most manifold bolt and the alternator bracket on the lump to lift both the engine and transmission together. I also used some well-rated nylon rope just in case anything gave way, but to be honest I didn't need this... just being extra careful! There are some pictures of the removal on my blog, http://rick-mgbgt.blogspot.com/2007/08/donk-has-left-building.html.