Engine ID for timing

I'm confused about which timing mark to use since my engine ID plate seems to be missing. The car is a '66 roadster (no O/D). Is there any other way to ID the engine?

Once again, thanks for your interest.

Ken

timing should not require id for the engine.

usually disconnect vac. advance and plug the line, run at 3500 rpm, set timing to about 32 degrees BTDC. There you go.

Thanks Mac - sounds like the best plan. Hmmm... I've been a shade tree mechanic for 30+ years. Why didn't I think of that!

Thanks again for the heads up.

Ken

With the age of the cars, the subtle degrees of difference between one year and another are no longer particularly important. The important factor, i think, is stability. If at pretty constant rpm the timing mark jumps around more than a little bit it should be fixed. It might be bearing wear in the dist, uneven wear on the cam lobe, problem points (often with the rubbing block not hitting right on the cam and with the points misaligned so they don't come together flat). I bailed on points 6 years ago and went to Pertronix. it greatly improved spark timing stability. Jeff Schlemmer, on the board, does a good and inexpensive rebuild on these distributors that makes them better than new, should it come to that.

Mac is right, our distributors, (even the typical rebuilt ones from Autozone, Pep boys, etc.) after 35 years or so the mechanical advance curve is lost. When you buy the typical "rebuilt" distributor they DO NOT re set the proper advance curve. I sent my Autozone rebuilt to Jeff and for about $30.00 USD he reset the curve....The difference is outstanding, as if the car had just been resurrected. It will be the best $30 bucks you ever spend on your "B", bar none.