I meant to put this picture in the first post.
Engine Out w/picture
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would have been easier if you had the front end on the ground. Nice feeling to do the first engine. Everyone after that comes faster. congrats
That's something I need to do, now that I have an OD transmission for my car.
EEEEEE!!
Was someone underneath that car????
Glad you got it pulled with no casualties. :(
Paul
KLUTZ Wrote:
EEEEEE!!
Was someone underneath that car????
Glad you got it pulled with no casualties.
Paul
"
2x8's laid flat with chocks front and rear of the tires? Wasn't going anywhere. Probably stronger than ramps. Might have been easier to pull with front of car lower than rear.
let the fun begin, if you are going to rebuild the engine, the only simple comment i have to make is install the oil filter attachtment to the engine while the engine is out. it has got to be easier to install the o ring and line up the oil filter adapter with the engine out. I spent a long time doing it while the engine was in the car, on my back, upside down, after many tries and loss of oil, not to mention the mess, I finally got it right. Dennis70
lhess Wrote:
2x8's laid flat with chocks front and rear of the tires? Wasn't going anywhere. Probably stronger than ramps. Might have been easier to pull with front of car lower than rear.
"
Not even side to side?
Mick, I hope the engine's not still dangling in the air like in the pic. It's much safer to lower it to the ground or get it mounted to the engine stand. Have fun!
Shawn Escue
I thought about how to get the car to the height I wanted it so it would be easy to work underneath it. Five 2 X 8 glued and screwed with chocks also glued and screwed front and rear. I was very safe under the car.
I used a tilt lift so it was not difficult getting everything out even with the front as high as it was.
Yes, this if fun.
Mick M.
Thanks Shawn, I lowered the it right after I took that picture.
Mick M.
KLUTZ Wrote:
lhess Wrote:Quote:
2x8's laid flat with chocks front and rear of the tires? Wasn't going anywhere. Probably stronger than ramps. Might have been easier to pull with front of car lower than rear.
Not even side to side?
"
2x10's would be better, but how much lateral movement would you have? I didn't have much, and my car was on jack stands. Both times. Jack stands have less footprint width than the 2x8's.
I went 2 X 8 because they are wider than the tires. I suppose 2 X 10 would be better. But then 2 X 12 would be better yet. Before I ever got under the car I pushed and pulled from every direction. If I would have had any dout, I would have done something different. Thanks for your concern though. Really.
Mick M.
I've got lots of clean up and paint to do. My wife will be more involved in that part of it. I really appreciate all the great advice I got from you guys. A book could be written about how much I don't know.
Mick M.
Mick,
It looks to me, that you were good and secure!
Congrats on a tough first step! Now that you have confidence in that, Y'all can do the rest just fine.
Alright, this may be a stupid question but...How did you go about getting it on those blocks?
-David
David asks a great question. How did you get up on those? How high off the floor is it.. I think you've given me a great project. I hate jack stands and I like to work underneath with the car on it's own suspension. Can you post a close up of your homemade work? I really like the look of that idea.
What do you mean by that Swamper? Seems to me like they're (74.5's) the best of the RB world which I know absolutely nothing about (by choice). You've got one of each it appears so what do you mean by "best of both worlds"? Happy motoring!
Shawn Escue
74.5 Is the RB model with the earlier running gear, the good carbs and no cat. it takes most of the earlier parts.
The downside of the 1974.5 model is that you have to have books covering 74 and back, plus 75 and forward. Rubber Bumpers are not a downside. I like them. I also like CB cars. To me it's like asking do you like apples or oranges? I like both of them too.
I like the way Swamper thinks. Don't limit yourself. Have a taste of all the fruit. BTW Swamper, your cars are beautiful. Both of them.
Mick M.
The reason I decided to use Blocks w/chocks was, #1. I don't trust Jack Stands. #2, The width of the Engine Hoist took up most of the room under the car and left little room for manuvering.
I used a floor Jack to raise the car enough to place the blocks w/chocks. The front is what limited the height because of the suspension. By the time I raised the front of the car enough for the front tires to clear the floor 7 1/2 inches, the Floor Jack was as high as I wanted to take it. That still gave me 16 5/8 inches clear under the car. Using a low riding creeper, I was very comfortable and was confident that the car was stable. The chock could easily been made higher, but I found it was not necessary.
Mick M.
Those pictures reassured me Mick. Quite safe.
Now.. what about putting wheels on the bottom?
Paul
Wheels on the bottom? I don't understand what you mean.
Mick M.
mick-susan mgb74.5 Wrote:
Wheels on the bottom? I don't understand what you mean.
Mick M.
"
Hey... It's early here this morning... :) Just thought it might be possible to put wheels on the bottom to move it around the shop but not at that height without putting another plate on the bottom.
Just ignore me Mick. :spinning:
Paul
You seem like a normal guy, but your not. Are you Paul? LOL
Mick M. (it's early here too)
Those blocks are very cool Mick. I'm going to make some this weekend for when I change all of the fluids.
-David
David, I went to Home Depot and let them cut all the 20 inch pieces. 6 from 1 10'stick. They charged me 25 cents per cut. (1st 2 cuts free) The only pieces I cut myself were the chocks. I would have let them cut them except they won't cut angles.
I just didn't want to mix saw dust with what I was really working on. I bought 2 inch wood screws and glued each piece together and then anchored screws. I figured that would make it as solid a block as possible. Disallowing any lateral movement of the individual pieces.
Mick M.
Your idea is great. I'd feel safer under there with your chocks than with jack stands.
Montrose Wrote:
That's something I need to do, now that I have an OD transmission for my car.
"
Oh Crap! First Paul now you...everyone is getting overdrive but me...I hope Santa reads this thread:(
ZOMBIE THREAD RISES FROM THE DEAD.
I saw Shawn Escue's post and was like 'oh shi- he's back'.
ohhhh... i see - you're talking about building casters using the 2x8's (but not as tall)....might be cheaper than purchasing a set ($100+ at harbor fright).... interesting idea... with some decent reinforcement, it's plausible i suppose...
Susan just got the "Back To The Future" trilogy for me for my Birthday (59 on the 12th) Seeing this post brought back, made me do a double take and laugh.
Am I missing something? I've seen many posts with people saying to raise the rear of the car, why is this? what's the benefit?
I understand the need to work under the car, but, why does everyone do this?
You're not the first Mick, and since this is your first engine extraction, I was wondering what your thinking was, was it solely to work under the car?
By the way, CONGRATS. After a few of these, you'll be able to do it qucikly! It gets easier and easier each and every time. You learn which order to do things, and what can stay and what MUST go. Starter for one, needs to go, I've learned that the hard way!
One bit of advice, Clean and chase each and every bolt hole and stud hole and get new hardware. Not only will it make getting everything back together much easier, but NEXT time, everything will come apart much easier!
HAVE FUN!!
B
Yep Shawny....was his normal self, ithcing to start something.
So.. Mick has is the rebuild going?
Lifting the rear, as opposed to lifting the front or the entire thing, makes the angles for extracting the engine/tranny combo easier to achieve and gives extra space for the tailshaft to swing down without hitting the ground.
I raise them up mostly because it takes a wide gap for a wide ass :) I jack everything up to the moon, I don't like working in tight spot. Jackstands don't scare me, but I probably put a LCBs on jackstands a thousand times.
The biggest mistake I see folks do, even professional garages is to not strip enough off the motor during a R&R, get lazy and try to leave the carbs/exhaust or filter housing on, then end up bending, banging or breaking something, being lazy will get you into trouble everytime
So people lift the rear of the car so that the drive shaft comes out too?? or are you just talking about the rear of the trans?
I ALWAYS remove mine at the flange at the trans. It prevents this altogether.
I have always installed a loop of chain from the rearmost manifold bolts and then on the other side of the engine at the front, onto the water pump arm. This allows for not only front to rear tilt, but side to side also. By changing the point that the cherry picker attaches to the loop of chain.
Of course, like Hap said, REMOVE EVERYTHING FIRST. Dizzy, carbs, starter, generator, etc., etc. Just pulling the long block straight out is easiest, and NOTHING breaks or scratches.
Fun stuff, eh???? I love it! what I HATE working on is my 4x4 Suburban w/ a 6" lift. I have to hang upside down in the engine compartment. PAINFUL!!!!!
Have fun everyone!
B
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