MG MGB and MGB GT Tech Talk
Like the title says, i removed the engine and transmission to replace the clutch assy,
anything else i ought to replace whilst its out? Or stick with the "if it aint broke" mindset?
First thought is, timing chain, rear main seal. Especially the latter, as i see a hint of motor oil on it right now. (yes, i pulled off the flywheel to polish it). Thoughts?
Careful. It is like fixing a small problem in the drywall and ending up refinishing the house. Unless you have a reason to change somthing, let sleeping dogs lie. These engine rebuilds can consume you.
David64MGB Wrote:
David64MGB Wrote:
If you can remember what the oil pressure was (hot idling) and if it was real low, now may be a good time to inspect replace the main bearings. The rod bearings can be replaced with the engine in the car but the mains need to have the engine out of the car in order to replace them. Also I would replace the OD inhibitor switch (if you have OD) and the switch has never been changed. They are a bugger to replace with the engine trans in the car. As some one else has already indicated "it all depends " How much work / money do you want to invest and what kind of shape is the car in at the moment. Lots of scheduled maintenance or none at all? But at a minimum I would be throwing in new main/rod bearings, timing chain, rear crank seal.
wallymander Wrote: [quote]
David64MGB Wrote:Quote:
I know this well, as i just completed a COMPLETE Kitchen remodel because my wife wanted a gas range instead of an electric one.
Smart lady. And, I suspect, a good cook. Gas is sooo much nicer to cook with.
Unfortunately it would cost a ton to put gas in our kitchen (slab foundation, 50-60 feet of pipe to run thru the attic and tear out some walls, etc.)
my grandson just bought a short sale house with a gas range. he knows he's lucky in that respect.
Replace the front seal in the transmission. Replace the spigot bushing in the back of the crankshaft. Replace the clutch arm pivot bolt and bushing. Typically the transmission mounts are oil soaked and rotten. Replace them as well as the stud bushing. Mac's rant about low oil pressure and rod bearings is also right on and can give you many more miles out of an engine by that simple change.
sounds like a complete rebuild:) you opened a can of worms. did it run good before you pulled it? if so, put the clutch in, clean everything, paint and drive it. These cars can run on low oil pressure etc. and give us lots of fun in the meantime.
Assuming you're already thinking through the lump side... On the car:
Clean out the cowl drain bulb.
Paint the front crossmember.
well then
I purchased the B for 250, and fired the engine up. I did nt pay much attention to the oil pressure, as the radiator was damn near empty still.
Theres no interior, so ive got time to work on the engine whilst waiting for the interior. I didnt hear any bearing sounds when i had it running.but that doesnt mean everything.Ive got time, and an engine stand at my disposal,
So i suppose ill flip the engine and pull the pan to look at the bearings.
I got into the car for $250 so i have a bigger than usual budget to work with. I have no problem putting some money and time into the power plant. Ive owned too many jeeps NOT to realize they will give you problems when you arent looking. Thanks all, from The great white north sown to sunny Fl, for opinions, allthough on a forum what else does one get, eh?
I second Mac's suggestion. It's easy to check rod and main bearings for wear, and fix while it's out. Mine were in "fail any minute" condition with no symptoms like low oil pressure.