Flywheel weight

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Dec 01, 2009 13:53:31
jfrankr

My B's a 66 .... how much does the stock flywheel weigh, and for a street car, what's a minimum it should weigh after machining? It's getting a new clutch.

Dec 01, 2009 13:56:44
BManBrian67

If you really want to improve off the line, and WOT acceleration get either a Fidanza Lightened Flywheel or Lighten yours. I wish I could remember the weights, I have them written down somewhere.

There's NOTHING like driving a car after installing a lightened flywheel. Night and Day!

Sorry I didn;t have the specific weights, but Hap would know. I bought my Fidanza from him.

B





Dec 01, 2009 15:04:13
Basil Adams

Different years are different weights. The early 3 mains are about 18 pounds and the 5 mains are lighter. An aluminum one is about 8.5 points. If you can lighten a stock flywheel to under 15 pounds, you're good. I've seen Kent Prather get one down to 12.5 but the amount of machining time makes that cost prohibitive. And if you really want the big daddy flywheel, look at this 8 pound, all steel beauty :)

Dec 01, 2009 18:41:49
jfrankr

Somebody recently said if the flywheel's too light, off the line acceleration suffers.

Dec 01, 2009 18:45:46
pralahda

now that is a great lookin' flywheel Basil

Dec 01, 2009 19:16:58
B-racer

Quote: "
Somebody recently said if the flywheel's too light, off the line acceleration suffers."


..because they didn't know what they were talking about. The exact opposite is true. 16 lbs is a pretty good weight for a stock (modified) flywheel. You can get crazy, but most any shop can cut one down to 16 lbs using generous radii in the inner and outer edges, and gain you some performance.

Dec 01, 2009 19:25:59
Phantomracer

more flywheel porn ;)



Love the light flywheel on the B

Just had a lighter one put on my audi TT. Huge difference!

Dec 01, 2009 23:23:19
Basil Adams

Paul, If I had a flywheel that looked like that 3-holed thing, I'd want it to show :)

Dec 02, 2009 06:05:26
Phantomracer

Quote: "
Paul, If I had a flywheel that looked like that 3-holed thing, I'd want it to show :)"


I know.. kinda bummed that it is buried inside!

It was an ebay find. I should have bought more when he had them. Oh well. So far it is standing up quite well.

Dec 02, 2009 07:20:07
mgbgts

I've never weighed a 3-main flywheel, but my 5-main one was either 22# or 24# before I had it lightened (boy my memory is getting bad)

Dec 02, 2009 11:34:44
jfrankr

I can trust any shop, NAPA or Carquest with machine shops for example as my locals do, with knowing what they're doing with my flywheel particularly if I'm asking them to lighten it? Anything car specific?

Mar 19, 2010 11:13:46
Montrose

So, how good is a Fidanza flywheel? Is it a good thing for an MGB.? MIne's a 1966 that will be driven well. Do you need to do anything to the engine when you switch to an aluminum flywheel?

Mar 19, 2010 11:18:34
mgbgts

I just put 5 5-main flywheels on the scale last week, and they were between 21# 2oz and 21# 10 oz. The earlier ones I know are heavier. I've got a few around, I'll put them on the scale and post later today.

Mar 19, 2010 12:32:42
thearkitekt

I had a local machine shop lighten my 5-main from 21# down to 16#, I havent driven on it yet, but I was impressed by the amount of material removed.

Mar 19, 2010 15:46:45
bills

I used to use a 3 main flywheel that weighed only 16 lbs. stock. Well, stock for a TVR as an SCCA homologated option and it was aluminum..... :smoking:

Don't go crazy machining flywheels unless you really know what you are doing. I still have a friend that can only walk with a cane, because a flywheel almost took one leg off at the ankle.

Mar 19, 2010 18:47:59
mgbgts

The early flywheels I have here, I believe are all for 3-main engines (don't have one for the 65-67 cars) weigh in at over 28# each. From just over, to almost 29#.

Mar 20, 2010 00:51:07
oily-hands

I don't know the exact weight, but heavy enough to break your toe if you drop it on your foot.

Don't ask how I know this.

Mar 20, 2010 04:18:05
Speedracer

Quote: "
So, how good is a Fidanza flywheel? Is it a good thing for an MGB.? MIne's a 1966 that will be driven well. Do you need to do anything to the engine when you switch to an aluminum flywheel?"


They are good units, we've used them on the race cars for years, I'll be using a early 3 syncro 5 main version Fidanza aluminum flywheel on my new street MGB engine. I would recommend ARP flywheels bolts (get small block Chevy/Ford units, there is no MGB listing for a MGB flywheel bolts, but these are correct for our cars). Other than that, they are zero balanced, I checked them more than once to only find out they were nuts on in balance, so just bolt it on with new ARP bolts, I torque them to stock flywheel torque values and use red locktite on them for peace of mind, like Bill said, this is a part you do not want coming loose. The only other advice I can give you is make sure the bolt drop in the bolt holes in the flywheel and and seat all the way down on the hole, some bolt have a stap at the bottom, and you want the bolt to completey seat, so on the 1275 unit I used a conter sink to increase the taper so the bolt didn't compress around the hole, this can cause spider cracks.

The one advantage with aluminum flywheel has over a drasticly lightened steel unit is you can replace the friction disc over time for wear, if a steel flywheel has been lighten tremendously on the backside opposite the friction area, and starts to blue or warp, it may not be servicable if the material there is too thin, I ran into this with the Peter May Engineering billet steel race flywheels, they were too thin in the friction area, so if they needed resurfacing, there was enough material there, you just threw it away and got a new one, this is not issue with the replacable friction disc on the aluminum flywheels.

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