To me it looks more like an optical illusion. If all the bolt holes line up you should be good to go. Install your crank sprocket and be certain it does not rub on the plate, but I doubt it will.I hope you are using the double row timing set and check the alignment of the two sprockets.
Always use gasket cement on both sides of the gasket as well as the metal mating surfaces of every piece of this fitment.
I like the quick drying tacky type and my favorite is the reddish stuff I get from the Cat. dealer, a bit spendy, but it is
superior to any other I have tried.
For you silicone users please don't, but if you must then remember that silicone is a gasket replacement and not to be used on a gasket where it will act as a lubricant and force out all or a portion of the gasket. Some say to let the silicone dry on a gasket before tightening, but who wants to wait all night for a process that may be dubious, at best. You can use silicone on both sides, to be sealed, but do it sparingly and leave out the gasket.
Be very sure the cover is not deformed in the seal area so that the seal will not fit square to the crank nose. This can happen when a lever is used to try and remove the dampener, or being heavy handed while changing the seal. Yes it does happen and it will cause your seal to wear out in short order.
Don't use sealer on the periphery of the seal, when installing, just a thin coat of motor oil and seat it fully in the bore.
Do not neglect to install the oil slinger, the "F" faces forward.
Loosely install the cover, with all bolts in but only part way. Push on the dampener, enough to enter the seal bore, and tighten the bolts you can get to, then remove the dampener and tighten the rest. Now your seal is centered on the dampener contact area. If you have an alignment dowel for the cover you cannot change the position of the cover.
Coat the inside of the dampener with sealer and gently tap it in far enough to put in the bolt that you have placed a dab of Loc-Tite on the threads of.
Pitch the lock tab in the trash and tighten up the bolt. I use an impact but you may attempt to properly torque it. You can lock the flywheel by putting a Phillips screwdriver in one of the clutch bolt holes and passing it through the starter aperture, providing the engine is not installed, in that case put the GBX in 4th gear and fully apply the hand brake or enlist the aid of someone to press the foot brake with great vigor.
If you lack the proper socket to complete this task you may use the field expedient of the "Chisel & BFH" method, but be aware that sometime in the future the next owner may disparage your good name with the epithet of "The DPO"!
This is by memory so if I have omitted anything please let me know.
Brad
