Front Suspension problem

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Apr 24, 2007 18:29:13
Carthage1

Hello again,

I'm rebuilding the front suspension & thought I had it all figured out & accomplished until I tried to get the hub bearings & spacers back together. I've tried numerous spacer changes & when I try to tighten the end spindle nut I'm either too loose & the rotor has a little wiggle to it or an additional quarter turn & the rotor is now too tight & won't turn. If anyone can think of something I could have installed wrong or something else I should do, I would appreciate the advise. I've had the hub on & off at least 15 times today & it's driving me crazy!!!LOL.

Thanks,
Brent

Apr 24, 2007 19:20:22
twigworker

There have been about five hundred posts over the last year or so on this very subject. A search of the board records will turn up LOTS of help.

There might be compelling reasons to go through the gyrations of getting the end float spot on for some, but in my experience it doesn't have to be "perfect". If you service the bearings properly and put the cone spacer back in and perhaps use some of the original shims and end up with a little slack you might go drive the car for a few miles, get the grease warmed up and the rollers settled in, and then return to the shop for a final"adjust". As long as the wheel/hub doesn't have a ridiculous amount of wobble and certainly as long as there is no binding you should be good to go for a long time. Let me put it this way, I can't recall the last time that used a dial indicator to measure end float and I have done a very significant number of wheel bearings services on LOTS of different makes of cars and trucks over more than twenty five years without a single failure.

Jack





Apr 24, 2007 19:22:01
PaulM

Brent ...I'm doing mine right now also. when I tightened the crown nut It didn't seem like it was tight enough to enable the cotter pin to match up with the hole in the spindle.

This is what I did with the hub install: Cleaned Cleaned also with a AC

-Pack Bearings
-slide in the bearing retainer small end towards the front of wheel side of the hub
-installed the rear first (small side first)
-put in the oil seal
-put in the collar for oil seal coned part towrads the inside nearest the swivel
-Put hub on and nuts on all 4 bolts
-put 3 spacers on and bearing at the same time with a longer pointer sort of ice Pic thing Bearing small side in
-slide retainer on to the groved portion of the spindle and tightened
-put on crown nut
-rotated hub to line up the big hole with the pin hole in the spindle (Had allready checked with the ice pic thing.


Apr 24, 2007 21:31:29
rrmgb

I may be real different here but I've run without spacer and shims for over 25 yrs. without any problems. Its sooooooooooooo much easier!

Apr 24, 2007 23:01:02
MGB-73

I recently did what rrmgb suggested, I just left out the spacer and shims. I actually had a little chuckle thinking how old-fashion they appeared, from back-in-the-day when some things were just done better. I used a new cotter pin with the new bearings and trust that it will secure the nut which holds on the hub/wheel.

Aren't the front hubs/wheels on most cars held on this way, with no spacer and shims?

Is this a bad idea/horror story in the making?

Apr 25, 2007 02:46:21
Paul J

MGB-73 Wrote:

Quote: "
I recently did what rrmgb suggested, I just left out the spacer and shims. I actually had a little chuckle thinking how old-fashion they appeared, from back-in-the-day when some things were just done better. I used a new cotter pin with the new bearings and trust that it will secure the nut which holds on the hub/wheel.
Aren't the front hubs/wheels on most cars held on this way, with no spacer and shims?
Is this a bad idea/horror story in the making?
"


To my knowledge, no American cars ever had the spindle design of the British cars. We've rebuilt front ends on our trucks after about 300 thousand miles with no damage to the bearings or race. These are trucks that go off road on many occasions. They don't have spacers and shims. None of the pickups or cars had spacer or shims and never a problem. I know that some of the car and pickup front ends went over 100,000 miles before even being touched. In fact, on the pickups and cars, the axle nut was put on a tad over hand tight, not torqued, just enough to get the cotter pin in. Anybody can say what they want and the point will be argued until your blue in the face but, if it was so important to have the shims and spacers, there'd be American cars all over the place where the front wheels fell off! Ain't going to happen! And please don't try and convince me that the British used a inferior steel in their front spindles that required the use of the spacer and shim or the axle would fall off. If the design was so good, then why, with all the federal safety requirements in todays manufacturing of automobiles, isn't the spacer and shim design used ? Because it makes no sense! JMHO.

Apr 25, 2007 06:00:23
rrmgb

There's no trick to it--not too tight, not too loose--just right. Tighten/snug nut to seat the well greased bearings and back off slightly. Again I say 25 yrs running this way and no problems.

Apr 25, 2007 07:42:07
Carthage1

I appreciate everyone's feedback & guess I had it together OK, just pysching myself out when there was maybe an 1/8th inch play in the rotor. Sounds like it should be OK once it is running from the feedback. Sorry I didn't search the board records prior to posting question, was just tired & frustrated when posting.

Thanks again everyone as usual your help is greatly appreciated.

Brent.

Apr 25, 2007 08:40:46
JoeReed

I think you've got too much play if it's really 1/8". The amount of play should be barely noticeable. I believe the spindle has two sets of holes through it. One vertical and one more horizontal. If the tolerance you want doesn't work with the cotter pin in one set of holes, try the other.

Apr 25, 2007 09:40:16
Carthage1

If the end nut is tightened to the next opening for the cotter pin, then it is too tight on the rotor, go figure! Too loose or too tight nothing in between.
Brent.

Apr 25, 2007 21:06:53
rrmgb

Hence the shims !!
1/8" = 0.125, I'm thinking 0.02 - 0.03 is about correct

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