Sounds like my front wheel bearings are going bad on my '79. The Haynes manual lists no procedures for replacing bearings, and only has a disembodied blowup of the assembly (for spinners no less; mine are Rostyle). Does anyone know of any online resources detailing the procedures for removing/inspecting/replacing/packing front wheel bearings? Much thanks!
Greg
Front wheel bearing docs?
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http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,644263,page=1
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Here's a recend thread, including a link to an article by JDW:
http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,610965,610965#msg-610965
Get ready for the shim/no shim debate!
that clown John Twist has a video on setting the clerance with the shims on You Tube
I haven't reviewed the John Twist video, but his stuff is usually pretty informative. If you replace the bearings, make sure and replace the outer race as well as the inner cage with the rollers. The outer races can be driven out of the hub (there are recesses machined in the hub to facilitate getting a drift pin punch in the right place). Clean the grease out of the middle of the hub and you will see them. Easy does it, a few taps on each side (180 deg apart) until the race falls out.
Replacement of the race is easier if you have something that is close to the diameter of the race, but yet will slip into the hub (I use a large socket). Getting it started straight is the key...once started, it's easy to drive into the hub until it is seated. By all means, make sure you get it in with the taper in the right direction! Always, always, the larger diameter of the inner machined surface faces outward...both front and rear on the hub. Order new grease seals also, as the seal will have to be removed to replace the rear bearing (if needed). Could be that only the outer one is bad....it should be visible on the rollers or pitting/worn area in the race. A little spot will make a LOT of noise. :) You might get away with replacing only the outer one, but if it looks good, then you should take a peek at the inner. The grease seal will have to be removed to get the inner cage and rollers out, and I'd replace it with a new one, even if you don't replace the bearing.
Hope this helps!
Thanks. I'll get her up on jacks tonight! With all the good online advice, I should probably invest in a covered keyboard to protect from grease, and move my PC out to the garage.
Greg
Hey, John Twist is NOT a clown. Let's not disparage his character. He has made many valuable contributions to the world of living with MGs over the years. Many will take offense with that remark.
I agree Peter, he has some very good info in is video for folks like me who are learing about Mgs
I tore down the passenger front axel, and the bearings seemed fine. The only thing I could find was at the complete end of the chain of bearings. The oil seal collar had metal filings all around it, and the surface that would contact the oil seal was striated. Since there was so much metal dust, I'm not going to trust that it didn't get into the bearings, so I have ordered all new. Thanks for all your help. I'm going to try John W's suggestion of going "shimless" when I reassemble.
Greg
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