Future Engine Rebuild

I am doing a little initial planning for an engine rebuild on my 1977 B. I most certainly will want to replace the head. My current carb does not need a water choke outlet and I was thinking about going with an earlier head, possibly late 1960's. I would prefer to get a head completly assembled, so my question is: Are the newly manufactured cast iron heads better at flowing the gasses in and out than the current head I have? Would it be better to spend the extra $400 or so on the assembled aluminum head? I know casting methods are better today than 40 years ago and I am hoping that the new cast iron would be more efficient than my current original head. I would also be making a change to a Pertronix Flame Thrower distributor to get a more advantageous advance curve. Most everything else I would keep stock, including the cam. I read Peter Burgess' book and he felt the standard cam was a good one so I would be inclined to stay stock. Any thoughts or opinions folks.

IMHO........

Robert, I for one can't see any valid reason to do an OH without going to the earlier twin carb and manifolds. If your locality does not require retention of the OEM smog stuff you can do it and still stay way under the emissions levels produced by an OEM set up that is in marginal or even good condition.

My opinion is that the OEM cam specs are good for just about any performance demands short of illegal driving and still retain good idle and fuel economy.

The electronic ignitions of today are light years ahead of what was available 20 years ago and make ignition tinkering a thing of the past.

The stock cast iron head with the slightly larger intake valves is superior to the other iron heads and in my opinion even to the aluminum and cross flow heads from a thermodynamic standpoint and certainly from an engine maintenance view in the case of the cross flow. They are less fragile too.

A carefully thought out and executed B engine with near stock components will return extremely satisfying power and dependability. I know that sticking exotic bits on or in an engine gives a guy a rush but getting the same or better performance by applying good workmanship and having put deep thought into the entire effort feels just as good. No offense meant to the folks who want to do the cross flows, or Weber's, or even superchargers. That sort of thing has it's place, but to me building a watch is more intriguing than dong an overhaul on Big Ben. LOL Jack

Jack,
Thanks for your input. I felt that staying with the cast iron would be preferable from a reliability standpoint, but I just wasn't sure if it was more efficient than what I already had. So that makes on decision for me much easier. I agree that when you start going a bit more exotic you run into factors that require more tinkering, and that is not what I really want. I currently have electronic ignition, but I am looking to upgrade to something that has a curve closer to the original design, instead of the retarded curve I have now. If my rebuild is well planned out I am hoping to minimize any surprises that would add cost and frustration.

Hi Robert, I agree with Jack comepletely here. If you wanted, a good speed shop could modify your existing head to open it up and breathe better if better flow is what you are looking for. The dual carbs take no prisoners when they are tuned correctly. Your current cast iron head is worth the money to keep, it just needs to be reworked to be the most effective. Good luck.

Jack, go alloy head, for the lightness and the new technology, ported and chambered better....remember power to weight ratio can also make one B quicker. Twin SU's or a DCOE, but more important sit down and write what you would like in your car and then save.....be sure to invenst in quality, no short cuts. You will be happier when it is done. Also a 5 speed is also lighter by mega pounds than an old MG tranny more power to weight stuff..... It is easy to talk these things...money can be an issue and a good DIY guy with bells and whistles (hoists, lifts etc) can be a money saver. Bottom line is to remember once it is done and done right you will find yourself driving more and under it less.

PM Hap Waldrop at Acme Speed Shop - he has recently been dealing with that question, if I'm not mistaken...