Completed installation this morning. Quick-quick starts now. Cool stuff.
http://www.britishstarters.com/
Installation tip. The site claims it's a simple bolt in. Not quite. The hot wire from the battery is located on the top of the unit. I didn't have enough length on my existing cable so I had to fab a cable extension. But now that it's done, I like the idea of opening the hood and being able to see the connections.
Gear Reduction starter
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One little warning about that.
Your left lower distributor cap clip might reach and ground out against that connnection. You might want to consider some sort of boot over the connections or tape or shrink tubing on the distributor cap clip. How many of us just pop it with a screw driver and let it flop down? Might make for some fireworks or worse.
Screwdriver?...to remove the duzzy cap......theres in interesting idea.
pmittler Wrote:
One little warning about that.
Your left lower distributor cap clip might reach and ground out against that connnection. You might want to consider some sort of boot over the connections or tape or shrink tubing on the distributor cap clip. How many of us just pop it with a screw driver and let it flop down? Might make for some fireworks or worse.
"
Good point. I don't think it will reach, but if you dropped a wrench and it landed between the mount and the block, droping a lead off a timing light, etc.... It is hot from the battery and exposed.
Time to make a cover for it. Thanks for the warning.
Kats Bee Wrote:
Screwdriver?...to remove the duzzy cap......theres in interesting idea.
"
no. to pop the clip off.
Pardon my starter ignorance and I'm not meaning to threadjack here but just what is a reduction starter and what are the benfits over the stock starter I have?
Thanks
Shrink tubing worked for me after the clip fell precisely onto the connection. No damage done and the tubing is a quick sturdy fix.
A gear reduction starter is a type of starter that spins faster than our stock Lucas units. The makers start with a Japanezse (usually) starter and change the sprague length and pitch and throw (if necessary) and build an adaptor collar so you can bolt it up to an MG engine. On the early MGBs and all MGAs, the sprague gear has beveled teeth because they push in toward the flywheel instead of pulling back across the flywheel. They make for much easier starting and seem to draw much less current. I get them for folks from time-to-time - They're about $175 plus shipping. Basil
I wouldn't go out and buy one just to have one. But if your stock one is failing (as mine was) it's a good upgrade.
I think an especially good upgrade for A's and the early B starters.
neely Wrote:
I think an especially good upgrade for A's and the early B starters.
"
Yep, it's a safety issue there. On hard braking the bendix has been known to retract into the flywheel with catastrophic results.
i wrapped a piece of rubber around the starter, securing it with zip ties.
solved the sparking problem.
I also understand that it is possible (??) to loosen the mounting plate and rotate it to put the cable at the normal spot. I heard about this long after i kludged mine.
Mac,
Mine is on the engine but the engine is not installed in the car yet...would love to hear from anyone that has rotated theirs to solve these two problems up front...sparking from the dizzy and the reach problem for the battery cable.
Frank
I tried a 180 degree install. It interfered with the distributor re-install. It might work if your dizzy is still installed and you come up from underneath. Checked an on-line photo and it showed the + terminal on the top.
mac townsend Wrote:
i wrapped a piece of rubber around the starter, securing it with zip ties.
solved the sparking problem.
I also understand that it is possible (??) to loosen the mounting plate and rotate it to put the cable at the normal spot. I heard about this long after i kludged mine.
"
I found that once the plate is rotated it also gives better clearance away from the chassis. The problem was access to the lower mounting bolt. Not enough clearance to put the wrench on the bolt. I took an open end wrench to the grinder to make it fit the narrow access.
There is a new dedicated starter wrench in the tool bag.
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