Paul, so ok, a 1875cc engine, close enough. I tell you what I tell everyone that aprroaches this line of questioning with me, race engines and street engines have very little in common, they have two totally different task to perform. The race engine lives it life at top end of powerband at high rpm all the time, it can run like total crap at low rpms, and have no reasonable idle, who cares. the street engine on the other hand has to perform well at the bottom and middle of it's powerband, do certain performance item to street egnine that compromise bottom and middle power in street engine is always going to be a bad compromise in enjoyablity, you just can't drive a street car at near redline all the time, unless you want to end up in jail :)
I had a street MGB guy come to my shop the other day, he wanted his throttle shaft thinned for performance, but yet the entire rest of the powertrain was stock, in fact the throttle shafts he brought me were heavily worn to begin with, I talked him to letting me ream the carb bodies for new OS shafts and forget about the thinning of the shaft, it would be just small mod in otherwise stock engine, he would never notice a performance gain in, it would have been a total waste of his money. Now mind you racers will do small detailed mods, that don't produce a large power gain, but if you add up all those small gains, they made difference, ok with that train of thought, alot of those small gains cost a shitload of money, for example aftermarket connecting rods. Carrillo abnd Pauter rods are the king daddy mack, Cadillac aftermarket rods of the race world for our cars, the standards all others are held to, no reason to look elsewhere, unless you're trying to save a buck. Most MG racers think when they doff off big money for set of the high end connecting rods they are buying added strength, not even close to the fact, MG straight later rods are strong as hell (notice I said later rods, the early rods are garbage) the later rods if you polish the beam, lighten them a bit, use ARP rod bolt will happily stand up to race conditions as well as the aftermarket rods, infact a much better choice than the econo Asian made rods out there, so you wanna know the real reason MG racers use expensive Carrillo/Pauter rods, even alot of them don't know why, to save on rotating mass, the aftermarket rods are lighter than stock rods, or even modded stock rods, so the racers may spend a $1000 to get a very slight acceleration rate increase, mot 1 single HP to gained, not even measurable on a dyno.
OK, when I built my hot rod street engine for my MGB, I had at my full expertise at my disposal, all the trick I know and have learned, and many of them cost me, no more than my time, it would easy to say I could have did them all, like the race motors, but I only did the ones, I knew were good choices for the all out performance street engine. On my carbs for the 1900cc engine, I went with HS2, they would have better intial throttle response, in the tight mountian roads and better perform over HS6s or a Weber side draft, this isn't a drag car, or time trial car, I want good throotle response to get off that tight conrner and blast towrds the next one,and out run my buds. OK, now I got the HS4s what did I with them, I'm one the few guys in the US than can do damn near everyhting imaginable to SU carb, mod wise, so what choices would I make for my personal street car, I took the stock velocity stack and reworked it on the lathe, I opened it open the ID to exactly 1.5", then counter bore fastnered it to use the KN RU-44210 air filters and then also do so more radius and angle work on the stock v-stacks on the lathe to imporove it geting more air into it, then port match the carb throat to match what I had did to the v-stack, radiued the face of the piston a wee bit, and that was it, no shaft thinning or knife edging the throttle disc, all that could compromise idle, I didn't want, or need that on my steet engine for optimal performance. The next step wpould have been, had Fred not taken my street car from me ;) was to get it to chassis dyno and dial the fuel mixture and timing in for optimal peroforance, this is big time important, get what you got tuned to be it's best, otherwise, you're just dicking around.
Folks like Dave and I get called on by a group, I like to refered as the "obcessed", they want to do all sort of things, some making no sense at all to street engines, especially for the street. I have a MG friend, to say he is obcessed would be a huge understatment. He has a trick MG 1380cc street engine, he has H beam connecting rods and Moldex billet crank in this street engine, that my friends is obcession on steroids :), he does need either of those items to make his engine more reliable or faster, he just obcessed to the level of saying, "hey guess what I got in my motor", and I think those folks are looking for the "wow" reaction of the folks that they tell this too, I'm not "wowed", by this because I know better, I just think, "damn there's a guy who like to throw money away", and as long as they throw my way, fair enough :D
Moral of all this, don't dick around with the same mods we do on race carbs for your street car, they are not practical for even high end performance street engines, not even epoxy ramp in the carbs, who the hell knows what street gas would do to them, hardly something you would even notice, unless of course it became a problem. Remember what I said above, race engines and street engines have little to nothing in common, so don't mock race crowd on mods, it could very well a disappointing experience.
Disclamer: this response is chocked full of common sense, beware some people are allergic to common sense, so be advised. :devil: