HELP -----'67 brake light switch removal

OK here's the deal........I've determined through testing that the brake light swicth is bad. (leads together=brake lights go on)

I tried to remove the switch from the union mounted on wheel well.
IT WON"T BUDGE!!
Is it reverse threads?? lol

I hit it with PB Blaster last night and I am afraid if I use any more "muscle" I will tear the complete union out of the wheel well!!!!

Also, when and IF I get the darn thing out, do I need to bleed brakes??

Any suggestions on removal????

It's normal RH threads. Put a big adjustable wrench on branch of the union for support. No brake bleeding required if you replace it.

Thanks Lee!

Outstanding that I don't have to bleed brakes!!!
Now if I can get another wrench in there........not much room :( "make it work as they say.

Maybe count the threads so you know how far to screw the new one on up

The replacements are crap. I bought one from Ron Francis wiring. It cost more but is good for many more cycles and is much more sensitive....20 psi verses 80 psi for original.

Ron Francis brake switch

Ron Francis Wiring http://www.ronfrancis.com/ Switch P/N SW-32. The other alternative is to make and install a Relay/arc suppression circuit when using a switch from Moss or NAPA. For information on making or purchasing a relay/arc suppression circuit, see the article, Brake Light Relay in the Other Tech Articles section of my web site, linked in my signature block below.

Not necessary to count the threads of the switch, it is a tapered thread and will tighten to a fluid seal as it is tightened. It is also not necessary to have it a fixed depth to operate properly.
Cheers,

I had a replacement switch go out in about a year. Bought a Ron Francis switch and it has worked great for the past 2 years. The switch is more sensitive and you don't have to push as hard on the brakes to have the lights on.

Hi,

Check out my article, on a different way to turn the lights on, without having to remove the existing switch.

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/saga19.htm

Herb

You'd run the wires, going to the original switch, to the micro switch. The new micro switch will close the circuit and turn on your brake lights using pedal travel versus the hydraulic pressure of the stock switch. RAY

Got it.
Thanks Ray!

Go to NAPA anf get one from a Volve or any other cross reference. I do not know why, but the ones MOSS sells are only good for one season. I blame it on the silicone fluid, but have never looked into it. 6 years and counting with the NAPA part.

I had problems with the switches I was getting failing in about a year or less - not the hydraulic type, the ones for the pedal linkage on the late models. They were Lucas, and when I took a couple of them apart, the little spring had very light pressure and the switch was built with no "wiping" action - just straight contact; hence, a charred spot formed on the little arm between contacts. Buff them off and they lasted as long as a new one. Finally, I just added a relay and have had no further problems for a few years now.

My '67B still has the original switch and it continues to work just fine. Maybe I'm just lucky. RAY