I have 8 spacer blocks (4 to a carb) that were used on my carbs per the attached pic. They're about 1/4" thick each and appear to have gaskets in between each. They look pretty cruddy on the outside but it's the seal between them all that I'm most concerned about. Should I just replace them (one more unexpected part!) or do you think fresh gaskets in between will be okay?
HS4 Spacer Blocks - Reuse or New
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Robert,
You should have only 2 phenolic spacer blocks, one for each carb. They each should be about 1 1/8" thick. So with the carbs, heat shield, and spacer blocks you should need a total of 6 mounting gaskets.
Those look kind of weird. Perhaps some DPO found a bunch of them, and stacked them up. I have about six extra of the phenolic types if you need them. I just cleaned all the crud off mine, and checked them for cracks.
I actually have a need for those thin blocks, and would be more than happy to swap even for the correct blocks that you need.
Jimmy, I know this is OT, but might you have the nuts for holding the carbs to the intake on the HS4's that you fixed me up with? I can't seem to find mine currently. I know they are probably in a box somewhere, but I haven't found them as yet.
Ron,
I have plenty, and if you need some I can send. But they are just 5/16" US fine thread.
By the way, I think I may have found a fuel line solution. I am just now experimenting with it.
Plain old 5/16-24.
if they don't go on nicely, examine the lead threads on teh cap screw. Or heck, replace the cap screw. They're a dime! (or less)
At first I used Nylocs, but discovered it took more wrenching the get the darn th9ings off...more than the perceived value of the vibration resistance. So now I use plain old nuts. About $8/box.
same-o-same-o HIF4 and HS4.
Some folks try to tune the runner lengths by inserting longer/shorter spacer blocks. It looks like someone sawed one up to have a little tuning fun. Glue them together or get new ones (they're under $20) - either way, they'll be fine. Basil
Take Jimmy up on a trade, you'll both get what you need then :)
mac townsend Wrote:
Plain old 5/16-24.
if they don't go on nicely, examine the lead threads on teh cap screw. Or heck, replace the cap screw. They're a dime! (or less)
At first I used Nylocs, but discovered it took more wrenching the get the darn th9ings off...more than the perceived value of the vibration resistance. So now I use plain old nuts. About $8/box.
same-o-same-o HIF4 and HS4.
"
Here is a picture of the original nuts (left) and a standard nut. I found three of them, but not the fourth. Not that I am an original parts nut, but I like the look of these on the car.
mgb65 Wrote:
Here is a picture of the original nuts (left) and a standard nut. I found three of them, but not the fourth. Not that I am an original parts nut, but I like the look of these on the car.
"
Ron, I have to agree with you. Those and the fuel line P clips are both getting hard to find. I have a small stash of each, but they are used for replate/exchange.
Mac I use jam hex nuts for these when assembling a entire unit, there nice for getting them into a tight area, that's one area where you can easily do a better job than the factory did.
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