Not sure what I've done yet, but I pulled to hard on the handbrake lever and felt something give or break. Now it it pulls up all the way and does not hold, I also noticed that the rear drums were clunking in reverse and felt like the rear wheels wanted to lock up. What is the most common thing I screwed up ? I won't be able to tear it apart for a week or so, trying to gather a general concensus on what possible mechanical parts I should look to replace or replace anyway since I'm going to be in it waist deep. Any replies will be joyfully appreciated.
Things for sure I will replace:
handbrake cable - steel wheels tour
brake lever boots
rear drums
shoes - got
cylinders - got
brake adjusters - got
brake spring hardware kit - got
Handbrake System
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MGB & GT Forum: Handbrake System
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Hard to say without taking the drums off in order to inspect the guts.
In any event, I don't think it would be wise to drive the car until all is inspected and repaired.
When you do the deed, remove the passenger seat and then the lever mechanism and start servicing things from there all the way out to the shoes, drums, cylinders, hose, steel lines, cable, cable compensator, yada, yada, yada. There is no room here for half-way measures here.
Jack
Elfis,
Until you get a chance to look at your brakes, have a look at the handbrake itself. The device that "catches" and hold the handle in the upright and locked position is called a "pawl". I'm not making that up. It's a tiny bit of metal that attaches to a rod inside the handle with teeth on the other end. These teeth mesh with the teeth on the fixed part of the assembly attached to the car.
The reason I mention this is I've had this pawl and the post it pivots on get bent out of shape so that the aforementioned teeth don't mesh together and thus, your handle won't stay up.
As for the "something breaking" part; that we can help you with once you have a look.
Pull the wheels ASAP and make sure that the parking brake mechanism is is where it should be. Something could have come loose and will get hung up on the brake shoes causing a large repair bill. RAY
I'm with Ray, you gotta check it out , or it's gonna get $$$$$$$$$$$$!
On my 74, there is a small "block" of steel that's welded to the trans tunnel near the rear that the e-brake cable housing goes into and holds it in place while the cable itself moves back and forth via the handle. That block is broken away from the body and my e-brake moves freely but does not hold at all. It needs to be welded back to the body to keep the sheath or housing from moving.
the handbrake levers can get pretty worn out too - if in doubt replace is how I see brake parts.
Trey,
That block of steel (it might be brass) is not welded to the tranny tunnel. It's bolted through the tunnel into the interior. The passenger seat must be removed to access the 1/2" nut that holds it in place. The tunnel carpet must also be lifted in that area. In your case, it's possible the nut has come off and allowed the block to fall out. If it turns out the threaded portion of the block is snapped, you'll need a new cable.
If you can push the passenger seat far enough forward, you can access the nut but it's tough to work in that limited space. Removing the seat is the way to go.
Thanks, Bruno
There is no stud on the block, so therefore I thought it must have been welded. It must have snapped off. So I need a new cable assy? I guess there would not be any way to install a new block due to the cable not being able to thread through the block because of the ends made on it.
Thanks for all the replies, I'm on the right track for replacement.
I think your talking about the secure nut at the front of the cable that is bolted through the tunnel. The other secure point is near the rear of the tunnel and accessable from under the car. It is not bolted, but rather a bend over flange that you widen to remove the cable, and push back down to secure the new cable. It is hard to find when first doing the job, but is there for sure on my 70B. BTW, when I replaced my cable it was way too long and I never could get it to work right. Anyone out there who can tell me the proper part number from Moss to replace my cable? 70B, came to me with wire wheels. The pawl can get loose as well if the weld breaks and I have yet to see a handle and pawl fit perfectly on the teeth. PITA, but I swear one day I will have a perfectly working handbrake!
After messing with mine for two years +, I didn't think that was possible...
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