Help assessing front end collision damage and repair strategy

Hi folks,

I need your help assessing collision damage to the 73 GT I am currently restoring.

Back in 2007 I liberated this car from an impound lot back in Virginia and I've been picking away at minor restoration issues. The real work is starting in earnest and it brings me to an area beyond my expertise. The car was involved in a front end collision - that is why it was in the impound lot. I have no idea what it hit, or how hard.

Rather than fill this post with all the pictures and description, I have placed an entry on my blog page here:

http://timsbritishiron.blogspot.com/2009/12/mgb-gt-front-end-damage-assessment.html

My problem is I do not know how to best assess the car for necessary repairs. The pics on the blog show you the damage I have identified and give you an idea of the force of impact. My goal is to have a SAFE car above all else. I was already planning to drop the front suspension and rebuild it. Should I instead be looking for an entire front suspension from a donor car and rebuild that instead?

These and other questions are also on the blog page. I look forward to any advice you may have!

Tim

I can tell you two things Tim.

One: The car hit a FIAT. Ask how I know. ;-)

Two: If you want a rebuild-able cross-member/suspension and can't find one closer to home, run up here with a pick up truck and I'll toss one in the bed. Gratis, of course.

Jack

Edit: Check the Gratis stuff. I must have been delirious. It will cost you a six pack of big Fosters cans, unopened of course. LOL

As far as the frame is concerned I suggest that you find someone with a frame bench THAT KNOWS HOW TO USE IT and have him check it and pull it back into shape.

I had reason to deal with a big Healey recently that had frame issues and found that "a good frame man is hard to find". They are out there though and I am sure that there is one in the Triangle area.

Jack

Thanks Jack. From what you see in the pics, does it look like I need a complete new suspension? Is there something else I can check to make this determination?

I'll keep your offer in mind if I can't find something local - that price is definitely right!

I have a line on a good place in Durham when it comes time for a frame check. They do a lot of work on Mustang restorations.

Tim

As Jack suggest, I would just get a replacement unit, complete with rack. I'm with him on the frame work also, a talented frame man can fix that quick. Also, the frame may not be out that much, the steering column normally runs very close to the frame rail on the left side.

What they said. I don't think you are going to find crossmember problems from that particular accident, but it doesn't hurt to do some close checking of the stripped crossmember to see if it is twisted or bent. And I have been fooled in the past with crossmembers in perfectly fine bodies that were tweaked.

A couple of things here:

1st..look farther back on the frame rail on the drivers side (farther from the blue arrow) you probably have a slight kink either right behind the blue arrow or back by the firewall. The frame is bent...no doubt about it. It is down and back on the drivers side. When it bends, it bends in an arch and that is why it is over against the steering pinion shaft. It can be fixed easily, but you need a guy who will take the time to do it right. The crossmember should be bolted on when they pull that side back.

2nd..The misalignment of the wheels can be caused by a bent steering arm on the drivers side as well. You may need to remove both sides and compare. The shock should be replaced as well. The crossmember is probably OK...as long as you check all the individual pieces. If the rack moves easily from lock to lock....it is OK....unless the tie rod is bent.

OK, Jack.

Just how do you know it was a FIAT?

Tim, If you don't already have one get the Bently manual. It has a section with the measurements for the body and front or rear frame sections. It really isn't too difficult to locate a complete crossmember from someone parting out a car. I've given away a couple myself. That one Jack has may be suitable. With some careful measurements you will be able to see how much and where the twist is. As someone else said that steering column is normally very close at that location and it wouldn't take much to make it rub. I've straightened worse than that myself. It doesn't appear that bad.
John

Hi Tim,

Frame is definitely bent (so I concur with Lloyd) If a wheel is wrecked when a car is stuffed in a frontal collision, the damage goes further in.

Get the car on a bench, with a good man using it for a pull. You can do a drop check, (using a good aircraft quality plumb bob and a good tape measure on a very flat area) but do it several times and average the results. If you can not get the same result within a millimetre or two - get it on a bench.

A good benchman will be able to tell if the cross member is twisted. - he should have wheel alignment gear as well (so checking wheel base).

Cheapest with the safest way is give the car a "yuck" on a bench to pull it. Throw the axle beam and shocker away and realign the 'new' bits. Check the stub axle, bottom arms and swivle (king) pin.

Once upon a time :eyeroll: I had a 'Caroliner' bench and pulled cars straight. The B will take a fair old whack in the front without it travelling very far back into the passenger area. What was the door gaps like?

Might be better to pull the car before you chop the sills out. If you have cut the sills, be very sure to align the passenger area before final welding.

Before embarking on that have the castle rails been checked for rust?

Thanks for the additional information.

Since the original post I have replaced the outer rocker and dogleg on the driver's side, with the passenger side to follow after more bodywork is completed. Castle rail on driver's side was good. I will assess the passenger side when I get "dug in."

I will definitely take it to a reputable frame shop and assess the front end suspension and steering as suggested.

Thanks - you guys are great.

Tim

throw away and replace the suspension on the hit side, leaving the crossmember in place, then bring the car to the best frame guy you can find. when he's done you can take some simple measurements with the wheels straight, measuring hub center to hub center. that'll tell you if he's pulled out whatever crush has occurred. then check the rest of the measurements per bentley. we're NOT talking plus or minus .010 here, 'cos when new they were not too refined dimensionally.
johnny mango