How difficult is it to remove my dash?

On a '67 'B', how hard is it to remove the dash for painting? Anyone have any practical step by step instructions and tips? How many fasteners and what are their exact locations? Any hints for disconnecting wiring if required?
Also, I've seen multiple suggestions for krinkle paint to use including Moss (I think) who sells the paint by the can apparently. I'd probably like to avoid the rattle can approach and use a gun for hopefully better results.

I'm hoping to be able to pull my dash when the weather looks up and strip and repaint it ahead of new switches etc. Who has been there and done that and what suggestions do you have? My seats are already out if that matters. I'm guessing that might make it a tad easier to get in under the dash.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=250

RHD but shows a bit of detail. Remove turn signal cowl crawl under as far as you can and start undoing everything. Tedious but not difficult. Pic may help you visualize the cowl top mounting.

Nut in the centre above the radio, or vent, either has to come out to get at it.
Remove glove box to get end nut. Other end is acessable with a socket extension. Steering column out, or at least undone at the dash and supported.
I recommend that you powder coat if you are looking for a good original wrinkle finish. About the same cost as paint (usually 2 or 3 attempts to get it right) but paint is about 10X as much work for an inferior finish and this is the bit you will be looking at most. You really need an oven to do this right. Cost me $100 to get the dash, radio blanking plate and giant custom glove box stripped and powder coated last time.

He's now charging $120 + GST Peter. Get mine back this coming week. If it's anything like yours I'll be really happy.

Before you go to the trouble off setting up with a spray gun, check out what powder coating would cost. I paid $125 including all prep, glove box door and blankimg plate. Spectacular result!

You need a good shop manual. If you're spending money on stuff like this, and doing the R&R yourself, get a Bently manual. I have a '65 BMC MGB shop manual - best money I've spent - answers a lot of questions.

An earlier post on this subject may be of some help. www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,1552256

That' s funny. I also own a 67 B and I pulled the dash last weekend. Although I am not an experienced mechanic, I removed the dash in a couple of hours. I guess the trick is to label all wires that belong to the same switch or gauge and make enough scetches of the correct wiring per gauge / switch. Just use common sense and save your nuts and bolts in an organised way.

I would also highly recommend to powder coat route. First of all its much more durable than paint (less sensitive for scratching etc), but it is also much better looking. Last but not least, proper painting wrinkle paint is a hell of a job snd the results are often a dissappointment. So save yourself the agony and spend the extra 100 bucks.

Good luck. Should you have any additional questions, just send me a PM.

Cheers,

Stan

I have a RHD 69 model and would use the factory manual and Linsday Porters, book. Dash is easy to remove just be real careful with the oil pressure and water temp lines dont kink them. Need the glovebox line out to get at one bolt and on just behind radio panel.

I sandblasted my dash undercoated in good primer twice then a can of wrinkle finish, Did it on a warm day perfect result then I coated in a satin finish clear coat.

Looks better than new and not expensive or hard to do,I think here in the tech tips there is a procedure to remove the dash but its not hard to do.

Peter

Hmmm, I hadn't thought of the obvious powder coat option. I think I'd rather go that route and have it done nicely than me mess it up. It would also spare my frustration for other items.

Now, are you guys sending your dash's out for the work and if so, who to? Doesn't it cost a fair amount to send off a dash and return it?

Thanks guys!

There will be someone local to you. Roger is well outback Australia and had no option but to post. I hope it turns out well,
I just went from powder coat place to powder coat place (there are lots of them) with the detached glove box (radio blanking plate would have been easier, but various reasons) and said match this finish exactly please.
It is hard to photo capture the correct wrinkle finish due to reflections from the flash. The powder coat is a little reflective and glitters slightly in the sun for example. When I was sliding the radio into place the angle was right to get an unreflective blanking plate (held on by magnets FYI)

here is a close up

I finished mine a few weeks ago, on a 67B too. It's not bad, just get a bunch of baggies to put all the screws together. The only pain was the oil gauge, which you must loosen from the block (take a wine bottle, drink it, then taper the cork so you can plug the hole where the gauge bolts into the block, and save some coolant), then pull all the way from inside the car. Protect the sensor with some towel and tape. Undo the switches, and mark everything. There are a few screws that hold the dash, which are not hard to undo, then pull out the dash. Clean your cables with engine degreaser and a towel, so you'll see what is what in the future.
I followed this link and got good results: http://www.mgexperience.net/article/wrinkle-paint.html
Carquest has everything you need, primer, wrinkle paint, high gloss white paint for the back. Lowe's has heat lamps ($12 a piece).
It was a fun project, and I enjoy the results every day. Wrinkles are not easy to get though; if I had to redo it, I would only apply 2 coats of wrinkle paint, not 3.
Good luck to you.