Indicator switch not self cancelling, do I replace-nos or repro?

Next...
Driving along today concentrating on my over heating B, 38C here today, overheating now cured it seems, I didnt manually turn off my indicators, got a very irate repsonse at next intersection.
So I best sort it out I thought.
Is there a repair I can make? Left self cancels, right doesnt!
There is an ebay new repro switch for $58 inc freight, in green Lucas box. Would this likely be Indian etc, and suspect quality, or are the repros good, or do they vary? Or do I buy an old NOS for $100. ( Australian dollars here)
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks
Patrick

Not sure if your car (71?) is same as mine (69).
But worth checking the "indicator cancelling clip" which is clipped to the steering column and can easly be seen once you remove the plastic surround.
As it is only clipped to the column it can be rotated, with a screw driver, or tapped with a small hammer. I should be centralized. If its not centralized it may only work in one direction.
Because it is only held in posiion by the clip, it can quite easily become misaligned. Or PO may have not put it back correctly. Worth checking before you go and buy a new swicth assbly.
R

Patrick,
Further to my earlier... see attached diagram.

Say hi to Perth for me. Spent two happy tours there over last 10yrs, watching England get thrashed at the WACA !

R

Please add the year of your car to your profile - that helps us a lot.

On my 1971 I got the Taiwanese replacement from Moss. The overall quality of the switch was good - but they used too small of a rivet to hold it together. That is also the pivot point so the whole switch was sloppy and didn't work worth a darn. I took it apart, replaced the rivet and now its great - but you shouldn't have to do that.

If you can get NOS (and it really is NOS) then I would go for that.

Aah - the year of your car is in your screen handle - I don't think everyone will notice that!

My car is a '74 CB roadster and I also had to replace the indicator stalk. I opted for the cheaper aftermarket unit... Wrong! I carefully installed it, but still managed to crack the plastic bracket when attaching it to the column. It might have been my fault, but I believe the tolerances are not as good as an original unit which lead to the cracking. Buy the NOS unit. You won't regret the extra dollars!
John

Absolutely buy the NOS unit.

I learned the hard way.

Again, year would be helpful. On some switches, the earlier style, there's the nylon or plastic self cancelling "spring" that is retained by the bushing/rivet. That is a repair piece and readily available.

I have that information and pertinent part numbers if you need.

Peter C

If the cancelling unit is misaligned, you may be able to realign properly. If the plastic cams are breaking down, buy new.

Well you certainly have lots of options. My return clip was broken so I replaced the switch. I used Northwest import parts. The new switch works very well. I'm not sure who built it. No complaints.

Hi Patrick, I very recently replaced mine - paid the extra for a real NOS and it's exactly same as the one that lasted 39 yrs. Worth the peace of mind if nothing else, and the orange box may be a collectors item soon hehe

Patrick.

The reproduction switches do vary. Sad but true.

Please state year and model type, since you may have a UK spec car rather than an imported US spec.

The repro Lucas boxed switches are coming out of China. I don't have much experience with them.

If you can find NOS, it's worth having. Beware though there are a number of vendors claiming to have original quality parts that are not.

I can vouch that the 1968-70 switch Moss US is selling is a high quality reproduction and works really well, but I don't have long term experience with the later 1971-72 version.

Kelvin.

Here we go,internet abreviations,code letters instead of real words.for those who would like to join in,NOS = new old stock.not too hard to spell out really.

Phil.

Good call. I had to go back to my post, as in a previous version I had spelled it out. Duh. That's what I get for editing.

It's funny, as there is no clear definition of New Old Stock.

How new? Been sitting around in a dungeon with water dripping? Or in an air tight sealed vault.

How old? Original to the build date of the car? Or shovelled out the door just before the manufacturer went into receivership.


We won't even begin to discuss O.E. (ducking)

You guys are going to get Lloyd going, you'd better watch out! B-)

When mine failed, I was able to source a NOS unit from a BL dealer, who had only one left in stock. That was 35 years ago and it's still working fine. Who says that Lucas parts don't last? RAY

These days "Lucas" is a brand name only. Like "Sylvania" light bulbs or TVs or even "Westinghouse" consumer products. The names are owned by ???? and are legally used to brand products sold by that brand's owner.

Because it comes in a box that says Lucas on it really means nothing at all.

But the age of the box will tell you pretty much how old it is. RAY

Thought this might be interesting since folks don't seem to know who owns Lucas now. I found this on the web - "The Lucas trademark is currently owned by TRW Automotive and is licensed to Elta Lighting for aftermarket auto parts in the United Kingdom".

The Elta website includes a link to their online Lucas parts catalog.


http://www.elta.co.uk/

Unfortunately, what Mac said.


Some of the Lucas branded products are good, others not so good. It's a constant battle.

Thanks for all that.
My car is a late 71 build, a 72 model UK car
I'll have a look at the switch, then if I cant see an easy fix I'll go NOS.
I remember some issues in the 80's with repro items, allowed to have Made in England, etc even though they werent as that was part of the "reproduction" But some were rubbish! And some countries dont protect trademarks!
Thanks
Patrick

I'd also like to add that the NOS one I purchased from the UK including shipping, was about half of the cost of what Moss charges for it.