Look what I found today , not good

I tearing down a 1275 for rebuild, and discovered it was factory sleeved block, the deal is the factory used cheap sleeves, to get block back to factory specs, when they did not intially pass quailty control. The sleeves are put in about as poorly as you could ever imagine. Needless to say, they are too thin of sleeves to bore over standard, maybe could bore for a 1380, but even then samrt machine shop would cull them, because if the sleeve breaks loose and spins in the block, it can tear up the boring bits, which are not cheap.
Bascily these things are boat anchors. Sorry the photo is a little out of focus, my camera does not like close ups.

Maybe you could talk to the factory rep, and see if they'd make it right. B)-

That just must make you shake your head in amazement!

Can an engine like that be resleeved somehow?

Norm

Any way to tell what engine #s might have gotten that treatment?

Hahaha...good one phil,

I guess gold isnt what it used to be..

Maybe its a silver engine


A serious note to follow up what someone else asked...can a proper resleve back to 1275 spec be done..

i hope it can, cause that was my plan later in life 25 years from now ... Have mine resleved when its time to rebuild with new pistons as i had mine maxed out at .060 over and didnt pre-design or machine for a 1380

Yes, thats it, i just call British Leyland :D

Norm, it would be cost prohibitive, it's risky for the machine shop, because the thin sleeve can spin in the block and damage the boring bar bits, which cost more than the bore job does, it's not to say it can't be done, but you have to bore out and resleeve all 4 cylinders (factory sleeved blocks are always all 4 cylinders) ,so you looking at $500-600 bore and sleeve job at minimum, it cheaper to start over with another block.

Cliff, no not really, it tends to show up in the later years, when their money was running thin, and they needed to fix the blocks rather than chunk them into the scrap pile, but it was strictly done when a block was bigger than their max spec, in the earlier years they would have just scrapped the block. You see it on later MGB blocks ocasionally too.

The good news is I have another block for the customer, and we will get back on track, but this would make someone a fine boat anchor :D

Gee hap,

Thanks for caring about the enviorment, what a greeny....

when i eat mercury fish, im concerned that my dinner may not have gotten enough iron in there diet...poor little animiek fish, save the fish and help the planet, dump a triumph 1500 lump in A lake

Btw hap ... What is the differance between a gold seal and a silver seal engine...i neve did catch the differance... Did they just run out of gold paint


HAHAHA !!!!

Prop

In the restore of my BE with the 1275, I ran into the same thing: one cyclinder had been sleeved. It had a very thin wall. Shop said that they could bore them all out and sleeve them, but at a cost of about $500. I bought another 1275 block that turned out OK.
Scott in CA

Well, Hap you probably know that most early tractor engines were sleeved. The oil bath air cleaners were not that great, so it was just assumed you would tear your engine down every winter or two.

On the Ford N tractor engines there were two types of sleeves put in over the years--a .040 cast iron sleeve, which is just peeled off with a sharp pointed chisel. Later they used a thicker steel .090 sleeve. Ford made a special puller for these, well, a pusher really. Kind of a hockey puck on a bar that you just drive out. One guy still makes them--obviously this would not fit an A-series but just in case you want to take a look: [url=http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/id5.html]Ford sleeve removal tool.[/url]

Most guys without the special tools just get out their welders and simply run a two or three 1/8" beads from the to bottom of the sleeve, and when they cool off they just fall out. You can also just heat up a narrow band from top to bottom with a torch until its red hot and it will do the same thing. If you go the welder route you have to be real careful not to weld right through the sleeve into your bore.

There are tens of thousands of Ns still running out there. Over 875,000 were produced between 1939 and 1952.

Not saying this would work on an A-series, but might be worth a try if you are going to make a boat anchor out of that block anyway. That's how tractor guys do it.

Charlie

I just thought if you used your welder to shrink the sleeves the machine shop could bore it out to 1380 without taking the chance the sleeve will spin and mess up the boring bar. But, like you say, probably more trouble than its worth.
Charlie