Hello everyone! So here is a little story: So i bought this mgb from a family member about a year ago, and its my first car. i know a faily large amount of information about mechanics, and with the assistance of my dad we want to get the car right. so i just bought a brand new weber carb from brittek.com and we are going to but it on the car tomorrow and run the car. but we need to change the oil in the car, and i need to know what weight it takes. any help is apprechaited. Thanks!
MGB Oil Weight?
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Lots of posts in the search on this subject. I use recommended Valvoline VR1 20w50 or Castrol oil, with a bottle of STP oil treatment as it has the special ZDDP anti ash additives to help reduce engine wear in older flat tappet engines build before 1988. I would also highly recommend using Napa brand oil filters as they are tall and have good anti drain back valves.
Note: Valvoline VR1 has the additives in it so the STP is not needed.
James
10W40 for the last 10 years in mine. I don't know if that is right or not but it seems to work. I would say that it is more important to change your oil/filter every now and then than what weight and brand ect... I suppose that others wont agree but thats my $0.2
I use Castrol 4T 20-50 motorcycle oil. You can buy it at most place, I use Pep Boys. It has ZDDP for flat tappet engines and since I live in the Los Angeles area, I don't have to worry about freezing temperatures. I also use the Wix oil filters.
personally, i use Castrol 20W/50 for high millage engines. the other oil that is highly recommended is the VR1. but this is the first i've heard of anyone using anything other than a 20W/50 oil. but i would think that whatever works for you, works for you...
check the "search" and you'll find MULT. threads about this subject as well as additives used for the zddp - moss sells one. i do know that 20W/50 is the most commonly used.
depends on how worn the bearings are (i.e. engine milege etc)
and - temperatures where you live (city, USA does not help)
check your owners manual (or buy one asap) - the Brits provided a nice chart of recommended viscosity for various outside temperatures
if you have a worn engine - you will find that "straight sae 30" always produces best oil pressure over any of the multi-weights
if you live where you start the engine when it's -10 below zero - then you need sae 10-40
I used to always run 20/50, but lately I've been running 10/40 with Lucas' Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. My car now sits a good bit b/w winter and spring. It used to be a daily driver, but now I'm more of a weekend warrior.
Chevron Delo 400 15/40. Tons of zddp,made for diesels though, but nothing in there that's bad for our engine's.I'm going to try the NAPA filter's now though,Thanks for the info James74.:)-D
Best thing..you can watch for the oil sales at the truck dealerships.(tu)
Mark
I can not believe people still ask this question when a 2 minute search in this site or Google will give anybody the 30000 posts on this subject
I can not believe people still ask this question when a 2 minute search in this site or Google will give anybody the 30000 posts on this subject
"
maybe cos they want to hear it from the lions mouth.get an opinion from those who know best..those who drive the same cars.
What do you all recommend for the gearbox and rear axle ? My owner's manual says to use the same oil in the box as you use in the engine.
The ideal viscosity depends on where you are (and the ambient temperature). For warm weather, 20w-50 is fine. For cooler climates, go to 10w-40. In very cold weather even 5w-30 can be best. An all round choice is Castrol Syntec 5w-50. That will work in any climate.
Rear axle (differential) is not the same as transmission/engine.
Use a hypoid gear oil. 80w or 90w depending on conditions.
RS
I say ask your questions. Anybody who wants to skip reading or responding to the posts based on the subject title is free to do so. Is this forum running out of space or something?
I use Valvoline VR1 20w50 year 'round. Same in gearbox, except the box doesn't need the zddp, so if you want you can use another brand, or even viscosity. I find it more convenient to just buy enough VR1; I don't have to think about it.
But, I have OD, so I use straight 30, non-detergent - doesn't take much thought. Pumpkin gets 85-90 gear oil.
A word on filters - get Wix, not NAPA. They are suppposed to be the same, but I had a thread issue with 2 filters I bought from NAPA.
Have fun!
I worked at a oil change place for about a year once about 15 years ago. We used Wix filters and never had any problems with them. Of course that was long enough ago that they could be made in China now. What do you guys think about Fram filters? I like the grip stuff on the end of them but don't know how well they compare.
Wix is the standard, American made. Baldwin, if you can find them. Purolator is good, I hear, but I stick to Wix.
Fram used to have a good reputation, but now they have better marketing than the product warrants. There is a filter comparison in the Library. Not sure about their air or fuel filters.
It seems a shame to me when a good brand name gets bought out or something and the quality that took years to establish turns to crap. I am a plumber now and see this with tools all the time.
Same as Tanny. Castrol 4T 20W50 engine oil. 30W non-detergent oil in the overdrive transmission. 90W Hypoid oil in the rear axle. I must be doing something right as the car is 44 years old and I've owned it for 40 years. RAY
I can not believe people still ask this question when a 2 minute search in this site or Google will give anybody the 30000 posts on this subject
"
Maybe because the oil available is always changing.
Chevron Delo 400 15/40. Tons of zddp,made for diesels though, but nothing in there that's bad for our engine's.
"
Not anymore. It's now called Delo 400 LE and (like *all* the commonly available diesel oils - Rotella, Delvac, etc) has reduced ZDDP. More than gasoline engine oils, but not as much as it used to.
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