"Might As Wells" When Replacing Interior Door Panels??

I bought an interior door panel kit for my 73 GT and today I removed the old panels.

What should I do to the inside of the door before I put the new panels on? Any preventative measures or upgrades that I should consider before I re-install the panels?

A second question: the little blue clips that pop into the door and hold the interior panel in place are brittle - several have cracked. Does anyone have recommendations on the best replacements for these?

Thanks,
Mark

I'm new to this myself,but I have noticed that MG's or at least the ones I've seen don't have a vapour barrier hence the door cards warp.

When I do mine I will be putting a full vapour barrier in,double sided tape and a good thick poly sheet.

hope that helps.

I intend to put in a vapor barrier - I was also thinking about painting the back of the card. But, I am not sure what to use to do this.

First vacuum out the door cavity and make sure that all drain holes are not plugged.

If you want to install DynaMat, now is a good time. Some do install it, some don't. Personal choice.

Make sure to reinstall a new vapor barrier across the whole door and taped down, or your new panels will not last for long.

I wouldn't paint it,all wood needs to breathe,even if it is just hardboard.The vapour barrier will do its work.

While you are in there...

1. Replace the door trim strip now if it is dented, as you can access the center nut.
2. Tighten the jam-nut on the vent window if they will not stay open at highway speeds.
3. Put a square of sound deadener on the door skin, you'll be pleased with the new-found solidity next time you close your doors.
4. Lubricate the window winder mechanism so they go up-n-down nice-n-easy.

lube the window's moving parts.

Ed and Mac are right on about lubing the mechanisms and tightening up a few things. Forgot about that part.

I'd put more than a little sound deadener in there. I'd cover a good deal of the inside of the door skin to dull the road noise as much as possible -- at least a few pieces.

I'm pretty sure Moss, etc. sell the clips to hold the door card onto the door.

If you need to replace the window winder (a metal one instead of plastic, for example), now's a good time. Or add those door lights Moss sells, stereo speakers . . . Etc.

You might also consider a little preventative rustproofing inside the door skin. Maybe a few squirts of your favorite. Even WD40 offers a little protection.

Glue the vapor barrier (a plastic garbage bag is fine) along all edges to keep moisture from the door card. Easiest way is to glue it, then cut it to size. with a razor knife. Neatness doesn't count as you can't see it.

A general cleaning and lubing of all moving parts, too, as mentioned above.

I think there's a pad at the bottom of the door which the window sits on when down (?). If that's gone or worn badly, you might consider replacing it with maybe hard cell foam?

Blue clips available at AutoZone, AdvanceAuto, etc.

Check the window guides for breakage/overall crappiness.

some excellent tips here... now if i can just remember them....

""

Tighten the jam-nut on the vent window if they will not stay open at highway speeds.""


mine will stay full forward for maximum wind uo to about 45 , then it closed , quite loose .. i found the loosenes .enjoyable since i put the parrish repo on ,, when in the draft of a big truck it would start fluttering and making the most strange movements as i moved through the turbulance /disturbed air.. i wondered how one corrected that loosenes. now i know ,,, but will i recall when the panels off??


i kinda like the drivers side one fluttering...

perhaps since you have /will remove that door panel you will share the procedure ...
window winders .. off .. then does ijust pop off [ pry off? ]

or what ..

[ in my experience once i get those panels off i will drive it for years with out then ,,,

don't need no stinkin door panels to roll..

michael