Modifying RWD Timing cover for a FWD 3X00 Conversion

When doing a economy 3X00 conversion using a RWD Timing cover two items need to be addressed. One is the top of the cover needs to be trimmed to make room for the Manifold when flipped around. The other is a water passage that needs to be plugged.

Killer B's Directions: http://britishcarconversions.com/convert-fwd-to-rwd.pdf

Trimming the top is straight forward, stop when the cover fits.

For the passage way:

The best way would be to do what Marc does and use a aluminum plug and weld the passage close. I would go this route if I had the equipment and skill.

On the other end some people have used JB Weld and formed a plug with a dome top on water side. I have used this product and believe it does a great job, if used for what it is intended. Holding two pieces together, not spanning gaps.

On the 60degeeV6 website I saw someone tap the hole and use a plug. I think this and using JB Weld on the threads would be a good compromise.

I got a steel plug from the plumbing store and plan to coat the threads with JB and then grind the plug flat.

It has been awhile since I studied dissimilar metal, and the fact that this will be in a water passage, any need to worry about corrosion with using this type of steel?

If I do another conversion, it will be with the 3X00 engine, because I love what I've read about their power and newer technology. But, I know very little about actually making them fit. Given the problems it seems to cause, what are the benefits of swapping a RWD timing cover on a 3X00 block?

The Upper Intake manifold has to be turned 180 degrees to face forward in the RWD configuration. The Stock Timing cover is too tall and has the water pump and Serpentine belt in the way for the thermostat housing and throttle body.

Using the RWD Timing cover with the above modifications allow the UIM to be turned and with using a modified Alternator bracket and a Idler pulley basically have the accessory drive system from a RWD motor.

Or at least that is the theory I have been told!B)- Marc at Killer B is the expert. There are a few MG's with the 3500 on this board. I have just started my conversion, but so far have found everything to be basic modifications but still early in the process.

Since this plug will be buried in the engine and any issue would not be found until a catistrophic failure happened. Just wanted to past this fix by the community before it is put all together.

An option for plugging the hole that I used is Devcon Aluminum Putty. Mil Spec MIL-PRF-24176C, Type II.

Data sheet attached.

I've seen a lot of steel coolant pipes in aluminum water pumps and intake manifolds and those didn't seem to cause corrosion issues to the point of a failure. It would be a good idea to use distilled water in your anti-freeze mix to protect all of the aluminum parts in your engine.

what is a 3X00?!

Does this relate to the 3500 60 degree V6 in some way?

I'm guessing that your options would work for a long time, but I'm a big fan of peace of mind. I can't imagine that it would cost much to take the cover to a welding shop and have the hole filled by a tig welder. That's what I'd do. Never have to think about it again.

WHEN USING A RWD COVER ON FWD ENGINE including a 3500.There are many ways to do this job. Welding is good if you can trust the guy doing the work not to over heat the plate and warping it. Problem is it gets costly. On the average a 25.00 minimum in most shops. After collaborating with Marc we decided the best way would be to tap the hole with a 7/16 x 20 NFT tap and use a short, plated Allen set screw, coated with epoxy and screw it down dead flush to the hole lip. If it sticks out it will hit the engine block. This is the best way to take advantage of the mechanical issues of it not coming out under pressure and heat over time. You will only have a few threads holding it but the epoxy will assure a good mechanical seal. Hope this helps.

Dann/Marc BCC

Thanks Dann

As you stated the there is not many threads due to how thin the piece is, but I don't see that as a problem. The Thread dramatically increase the surface area for the epoxy to grab a hold of.

Since this 'Plug' will be up against the block, it's not going anywhere. Main thing is to make sure it holds the pressure of the cooling system and not to leak!