Hi
I need help in confirming some parts that I bought. From a dark dingy old parts shop....Not easy to come by so I grabbed them.
1) Contact set (Quickafit) - replaces Lucas 54419946 (Made in England). My dizzy is a 25D
2) Brake switch (Intermotor) - No 161 replaces 54033285 (Made in England)
3) Lucas flasher unit - FL512v48
Item 2 is the pressure activated brake swtich for the early Bs.
Can someone tell me if I have right parts for my 64?
Thanks for your help!
Andrew
Need help with part numbers please
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Since I'm on a different time zone.....
I got the new Lucas flasher in and running - so that is OK.
The brake pressure switch fits but leaks at the thread. The old one has a taper on the thread. The new one is straight. Do I screw it right in and use a copper or aluminium washer here?
Thanks
Andrew
oreo Wrote:
Hi
I need help in confirming some parts that I bought. From a dark dingy old parts shop....Not easy to come by so I grabbed them.
1) Contact set (Quickafit) - replaces Lucas 54419946 (Made in England). My dizzy is a 25D
2) Brake switch (Intermotor) - No 161 replaces 54033285 (Made in England)
3) Lucas flasher unit - FL512v48
Item 2 is the pressure activated brake swtich for the early Bs.
Can someone tell me if I have right parts for my 64?
Thanks for your help!
Andrew
"
Points are correct.... and prefered!
Switch is for a big Austin Healey, and should not be used. taper vs. straight thread.
Flasher is fine. It should say 35020 on it somewhere.
Peter C.
Hi Peter
Thanks for that. So I should be using the taper thread switch then? Would you, by any chance, have the model number for that switch too?
Regards
Andrew
oreo Wrote:
Hi Peter
Thanks for that. So I should be using the taper thread switch then? Would you, by any chance, have the model number for that switch too?
Regards
Andrew
"
=========
Sure... sorry.
Original Lucas number 34542 became SPB400 and Intermotor 51600 and is waaaaaay more popular than the one you got. Fit Series Land Rovers and a bunch of BMC, Triumph, Volvos of the era.
Peter
Hi Peter
Thanks again. Beggars can't be choosers. I have a hard time tracking these parts down. The one eighth NPT type switches are non existent here...err...Make that all MG parts are non existent here. But I'm sure he has one buried somewhere in there....
Regards
Andrew
Andrew - While you are waiting to get that replacement switch, you might want to make up a relay/arc suppression circuit to install at the same time you replace the switch. Unfortunately, the replacement switches available today are very light duty switches and tend to burn out in just a few months. Installing a relay/arc suppression circuit at the time the switch is replaced will keep the switch operating for many years. For information on how to make up the circuit, see my article at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/Other_Subjects/Electrical/General/Brake_Light_Relay.pdf
Cheers,
Hi Dave
Thanks for the tip. Will definitely be making up one. BTW - what does the capacitor and diode do? Sorry my electronics is very basic.
You guys have been great!
Andrew
Andrew - The diode provides a path for to shunt the rather large voltage spike that is generated when the brake light switch opens after the brakes are released and the capacitor shunts any left over voltage around the switch contacts. Probably either component, by itself would be sufficient, but I chose the belt and suspenders approach when I designed the circuit because I had gone through so many switches at the time. By the way, the capacitor value is not critical. I used a 0.47 microfarad capacitor as is listed, but just about anything from a 0.1 to a 0.68 microfarad will do the job.
Cheers,
My search for the tapered switch has hit a dead end. They cross referenced it for me and the most likely sources could be from an Alfa dealer (GT Junior). Also used in the early Land Rovers but they did not have it. Won't try the Volvo outlet as they only do the new models.
BTW I filled the internal chamber in the switch with fluid before refitting it and I swear it works a tad better.
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