New MG Owner with some random Questions

Hey All,
This is my first post. I just recently purchased a 1970 MG Midget. I am not very knowledgable about rebuilding cars, but figure that this would be a great car to learn on. The engine seems to run well, but does need a tune-up.

Soo for the problems:

Currently the brakes are not operational (if I press the pedal all the way down I get a little bit of brake pressure). The previous owner told me that he rebuilt the master cylinder and thought that it might have gone out again. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes first to see it if this help before replacing the master cylinder. It has the dual line master cylinder and I want to make sure I am not wasting $250 dollars on a MC if thats not the problem. Thoughts?

Also I believe that I need DOT 4 brake/clutch fluid for both the brake and clutch master cylinders, is this correct?

Lastly, I live in East Texas and was looking for recommendations for type of motor oil for this old of a car in this area.

Any help with any of this stuff would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!

Jacob

Jacob,
Welcome to the board. Good looking Midget, looks virtually rust free. I'm new to MGs too, but have learned a lot on this forum. There is plenty of knowledge here, and all are more than willing to share.

From what I have read, you want to use 20W-50 wt. oil in the crankcase and the tranny.

As for the brakes, if the PO rebuilt the MC and did it properly, it shouldn't need it again. I not sure about the dual line MC, but it may be that the same reservoir is used for the brakes and the hydraulic clutch. I agree with you in that bleeding the brakes is a good place to start. If that doesn't help, you may want to check the wheel cylinders and brake lines to be sure they aren't leaking. The recommended brake fluid, I believe is Castrol LMA. I can't find any locally, but you can get it from Victoria British or probably Moss.

You can get free catalogs from both, just go to their web-sites. Their catalogs have exploded diagrams that will help you see how these little cars are put together. It will be big help if you also buy a Hanes repair manual.

I'm sure that more educated members will chime in and answer any and all of youe questions. Good luck with your 'new' car, they are a blast to drive and get a lot of attention everywhere you go.


Tom

Dual line master cylinder standard equipment 70 and 73.Basically its 2 master cylinders in one unit.

If you are not very experienced ,I would highly recommend you get a mechanic to look at your brakes. Is there any sign of leagage near the master cylinder, or wheel cylinders? If the MC is leaking, buy the replacement , and either have a pro put it in, or find someone with experience to check your work
It's not a good idea to "learn by error" on the brake system.

I agree with Keith--get a good mechanic to look at the brakes. The dual line mastercylinder is for the front brakes (one line) and the rear brakes (the other line). The reservoir has a divider inside to keep flluid for one line in case the other leaks.
I have a 72 Midget I bought new and have over 200,000 miles on it. I still use 10W40 oil and change it every 2000 miles. The engine was rebuilt at 188,000 miles when the original clutch finally gave up. I had the block measured at a machine shop and it still runs standard pistons, rod bearings and main bearings so that tells me that the oil works. Just change it. Enjoy your car. It looks really good.

First off welcome... and very nice Midget......

Now since the others have offered excellent advise I'll add a bit more info on the topic of brake fluid.

They are correct in that you need to use the Castol/Girling LMA type fluid. The reason is that unlike the american/Japanese/German auto industry that used synthetic rubber in the brake system seals, the english in their infinate wisom used "natural rubber. With the synthetic rubber brake seals you can pretty much use what ever type of brake fluid you choose (just don't mix types). With the natural rubber seals you have one choice and that is the LMA type... reason is that any other type of fluid (DOT4/DOT5 etc) will literally DISOLVE the natural rubber seals. I have seen this happen within minutes of contamination. I have also seen the results of a driver not realizing it till he HAD to stop, only to find that he had ZERO brakes! Most major auto parts store stock the Castol LMA fluid and if not can normally order you some from their local supplier.
Just don't let them or anyone else try to tell you that anything else will work just fine.

I had an experiance a couple years back, I needed some Castrol LMA fluid for my Rover 2000TC as I was going to rebuild the rear calipers..... stopped into an auto parts store in Spokane Wa. looking for some Castrol fluid.... they had zilch and the counter person told me that the regular Dot-3 would be just fine...lolol.... What suprised me was that the mechanic from the brake shop next door happened to be there...and tryed to tell me the same thing!! (and this was a major brake chain!!)

So just remember to double check anything you have done at a brake shop and make sure they understand that the only fluid you will accept id the Castrol LMA!!

Michael

If you have a Pep Boys in your area, they probably stock the Castrol LMA. They do in SW Missouri anyway. I also use 20W-50 oil in my British vehicles.

"""""""""Currently the brakes are not operational (if I press the pedal all the way down I get a little bit of brake pressure"""""""""

Firs thing I'd do is adjust the back brakes. Low pedal indicates possible need of this. many times the rear adjuster bolts are siezed up and can not be adjusted intil freed up.

Jgremlin typed "I am not very knowledgable about rebuilding cars, but figure that this would be a great car to learn on."

These cars are great to learn on, for the most part they have some of the most simple design you'll ever find. HOWEVER based on your statement I quoted ,start your learning after the brakes are repaired proffesionally. This is one area of the car to not cut corners on.

While I agree that a major brake overhaul may require the help of a mechanic. I don't think bleeding the brakes does. If you have some mechanical ability and can read a Haynes manual, you shouldn't have any problem bleeding the brakes to see if that helps your problem.

If you are unsure at any point, post your questions here.

correction.... Dot4/Dot5 is fine...the one to stay away from is DOT-3