New caliper question

When an order is placed for a new caliper, Moss # 182-705, does that setup come with a new caliper, pistons, and seals? I'm asking because the PO stated both calipers were brand new but I noticed some fluid on the right side tire. I removed the tire and both pads and discovered some excess fluid on the pads, rotor, and clip. Strangely there is a majority of fluids on the backside of the outer pad where the piston touches. Before I order a repair kit I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. When I removed the pads both inside areas of the pistons look super clean like there are brand new (shiny metal). So I'm thinking the seals are bad already with only 130ish miles. Does that make sense? Its only $10 for a repair kit so if I have to I'm alright in going that route but does that seem the best approach?

Were they really brand new, or did the DPO rebuild them, in which case the cylinder walls could have been too pitted, or he did not hone them or did it incorrectly. In any case, the seals would not last long, even with another rebuild unless they can be adequately refinished. New or factory rebuilt calipers should not have that problem, but then neither should a DIY rebuild if done correctly.

I'm one to talk, I'm getting ready to rebuild my calipers and am replacing all of the hardware, except I thought I ordered two sets of rotor to hub bolts, but only ordered two bolts. I've got to work on that simple math. :)

Its usually the case that the calipers dont warrent replacement, just the piston seals (the pistons themselves never touch the walls of the calipers). Thats all thats probibly going to be in the repair kit. In fact most brake calipers are probibly the same way. the thing is that mechanic shops dont want to have to deal with liability and other issues and much prefer sending it out for rebuilding. I suppose they make more money on a part that they can sell for tripple digits than one that costs 10.

Before you order, try to make sure you know where it is leaking from. It does sound like failed piston seals to me. Once you get the calipers out, the trick is to find a way to remove the pistons. I used compressed air with the help of a friend, but forgot how. Once the pistons are out its easy to put new seals in. If you need to split the calipers and replacethose seals the following may help.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt104b.htm

I was thinking more of if he had pitting because of rust, if the DPO(s) had never flushed the brake fluid. We used to overhaul wheel cylinders all the time on any brake job (Fords/Merc)-hone the cylinders and replace the seals (cups). Of course when I was growing up, dad's mechanics also relined the brake shoes-drill out the rivets, clean up the metal, and rivet on new lining with a foot operated rivet machine. Now you just order new shoes or pads, part of it is a shifting of liability and part of it is the newer materials probably don't lend themselves to reman'ing.

There is a small chance the brakes were bled and the bleeding person was not careful and you got a splash (splooge?) of fluid escaping the process.

I'd wash them off real well first and then stand on the brakes a few times and see if I had fluid there again before I went and ordered any new stuff.

Before you do anything extreme... Look at the simple stuff 1st... Esp being a new owner,

Check that the hoses are tight, and that the bleeder valve is secure and not loose

It wouldnt be the 1st time someone finger tighted took a phone call, then went to lunch and forgot to wrench it

Bump.

And the result is... ?

Well last night before trying to figure out the electrical bugs, I removed the caliper and pads again. Last time I tried to clean the interior pistons and actually wire brushed the exteriors of both pads. Again I found some fluid on the exterior side of the outer pad so it's leaking there. The bleeder seems bone dry all around that area do I'm assuming is the seals or worse the caliper is pitted. I've no way to get either piston out as I don't gave a compressor so for now I'm just going to move on. I have the receipts for both calipers and they're only a few years old...sucks!

jason, can you connect up the brake like to the caliper, press the brake peddle, and pop the cylinder out?

Lightly pitted caliper won't hurt anything. The caliper is kinda "inside out" with respect to the seals.

The actual sealing surfaces are the grooves in the caliper bore and the piston. If your pistons are nice and shiney, you have a bad seal, pure and simple.

In researching the receipts from the PO I have one for 2 new rebuilt calipers purchased 12/18/2009 and when I called the number I was surprised to find it belong to a well respective vendor that a lot of us have used. I'd rather not say whom so as to not spoil anything for him but when I called he said to ship it to him and them he'd send it off to his rebuilder to see if it could be warrentied. I decided that would cost way too much in shipping and might be cheaper to simply buy a whole new rebuilt caliper. Question, this car has less than 50 miles on it since the PO chnaged them out, how likely is it the seals are just bad from the get go?

JJ

Likely unless the calipers sat on a shelf for awhile in a humid environment, in which case a little spot of rust may have developed on the pistons.

There was a spate of poor quality rubber o-rings a while back so it may just have been a victim of circumstance.

Jason,
I would be suspect of calipers that sat around for that long since they are such an important part of the car. If anyone is willing to look at them and consider warranty repair after that long they must be a good vendor. I shipped mine in to be rebuilt and couldn't be happier with the results and the postage was not bad. Try 'if it fits, it ships' from the USPS.
Rut