Nineteen Years in a Barn........

Hello Gentlemen. I've enjoyed the various articles on this site, and have decided to go V6. I traded some labor to a lady friend for a decent looking 1974 MGB roadster that hasn't been driven since 1988! The interior and tops cleaned up ok, the body has only a little rust, but the engine won't budge, even for a four foot cheater bar. I know it will need a clutch, and my friend thinks she parked it for a tranny problem, but I think it may be ok. Anyway, getting this thing running will cost a lot for parts and machine shop work, not to mention my time, so I'm gonna chuck it for a 3.4 liter Chevy. Is an aluminum block engine a must, or is a cast iron unit an option? Thanks!

Pull the plugs and spray or pour Kroil into each cylinder and let it soak for a few days. Then pour a couple of oz of Marvel oil and let that soak. I have freed up engines that had sat a lot longer than this one has.

I'm inclined to agree with Paul to at least make an attempt to free up the original engine if for no other reason than it'll make it easier to sell it to someone who might want to rebuild it.

As for your 3.4 V6 question, you can use either the alloy (FWD) or cast iron (RWD) headed engines. All the blocks are cast iron. I've just bought a 3.4 Camaro V6 and T5 as an assembly. Seems the simplest solution to me. And I'm looking for simple. I'm trying to assemble engine, computer and wiring all from the same year Camaro so that everything will be "Plug & Play". And even simpler approach, to some, is to chuck the fuel injection and computer and go with a carb and distributor. Using a FWD alloy headed engine involves adapting the engine to connect to RWD configuration which is a further complication I chose to avoid. I'm not sure how much weight is saved by using aluminum heads. I believe I've read that you can't put aluminum heads on a RWD engine, but I could well be wrong.

There are several sources for kit to install the V6 into the 'B. This is where I'm straying from the KISS approach, as I'm planning an 'A conversion which is not catered to.

Paul wrote:

"Pull the plugs and spray or pour Kroil into each cylinder and let it soak for a few days. Then pour a couple of oz of Marvel oil and let that soak. I have freed up engines that had sat a lot longer than this one has."

This method usually works. I'm sure Paul meant to add that the engine would be freed but it would not be ready for service. An engine that has frozen that badly will surely have results of negative consequences if forced to rotate. Rust is a weld in some respects. The cylinder walls, over the period of dormancy, will be etched into by the rings. This could give chance to breaking the rings and causing even further damage if the engine was forcibly turned over by hand in one direction or even started. It would be best to remove the cylinder head, let the penetrants soak for a period, then joggle the engine cw and ccw carefully until the rings moved off the seat then examine the cylinder walls. The head on this model is very easily removed and replaced with carburetors in place. In any respects the engine will need boring and piston/ring replacement.

Dann BCC

Hi guys. Before I tried to turn it I filled the cylinders and crankcase with diesel fuel, and let it sit for a week. That was six weeks ago, it still won't budge. I'll give it more time, then pull the heads. Are you guys buying Bill Guzmans kits, or doing your own engineering?

I'm on my own with the MGA. That's why I just bought a MIG welder and a Sawzall.