Overheating and water pump: Lessons Learned

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Apr 30, 2007 17:56:24
Lee

Follow up.

The water pump shaft was loose, rattled when running, and it did leak but that was not the end. What happened was one problem lead to the discovery of another. The water pump was replaced with a good used pump from the spares collection. During the 1/4 mile test drive the car heated very quicky close to H. The cap was removed from the radiator and there was no coolant flow. The initial overheating problem was with the thermostat not the waterpump. The themostat failed and was closed. The thermostat was replaced with a the new fail safe type. So the story goes, one thing leads to another. :)


Lee Wrote:

Quote: "
I think my water pump has taken a turn for the worse. I made a short run to AutoZone for battery cables and fuel line hose for the 67B. When I got back the 71B was running warmer than usual. After parking and walking toward the the garage I looked back and saw water dripping from the front of the car. My first thought was a hose or the radiator sprung a leak. I opened the bonnet for a look and saw a wet spot right in the center of the radiator with a good puddle on the ground. The overflow was not dripping. I added more water and started it up to confirm the leak. Coolant leaked from under the front of the cap and dripped on to the radiator right where it was previously wet. I looked at the water pump and it was dry. I shut the car off and checked the water pump shaft. I took hold of the fan blade and produced a noticable wiggle in the water pump shaft. I thought the water pump would leak when it was bad. Anyone else have a water pump go bad that didnt leak.
"


Basil Wrote:
Quote: "
Check your radiator cap first. If it's not holding at least 10 pounds, replace it. Pull the thermostat and pressure check the rest of the cooling system. If it holds pressure, smile. A wiggle in the water pump signals wear but not always time for mandatory replacement. Once you've got everything else checked, start the car and (leave the thermostat out for now but put the housing back on) and look into the radiator - is water flowing? If it is, replacing the pump is optional. Replace the thermostat and have fun. There is a newer type of thermostat everyone should use - when it fails, it stays open instead of closed. It's worth the extra buck fifty Best of luck. Basil
"


Kimberly Wrote:
Quote: "
Yes, I have seen bad water pumps that did not leak.
Worn vanes that reduced circulation and bad bearings.
"


Lee Wrote:
Quote: "
I looked a little closer around the water pump and there are signs its leaking. The paint was removed from the top of the timing chain cover with just a hint of coolant under the water pump.
"


May 01, 2007 05:01:43
twigworker

Slightly confused by the thread presentation so forgive me if I am repeating something.

Loose shafts usually, but not always, result in immediate leaks. I have seen pumps on several makes of cars that could not possibly be retaining fluid under pressure because they were so sloppy, but they were! Sometimes pumps weep through the vent under the chin of the housing and the shafts are still perfectly steady. Go figure!

With the thermostat replacment you probably have not overdone anything though. Lots of times, if the systems overheats for what ever reason the 'stat is damaged and needs replacement. In fact I would say that if any significant heating occurs, that is to the point of fluid lose or more, the thermostat should be replace as a matter of prevention.

Jack





May 01, 2007 08:07:45
bobmunch

Just for giggles, I have also seen an instance where the impeller, held on to the shaft by a simple roll pin that rotted thru, came loose, and altho the shaft was somewhat loose, there was no leakage and no obvious malfunction visible or audible at the pump. However, this was on a different make of car, but there are often several reasons for overheating beyond the obvious.

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