Parts washer solvent?

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Sep 28, 2007 13:56:05
Jim Blackwood

You know, I sometimes wonder if a "Tools" section would make any sense. Anyway, how about some recommendations for a solvent to use in the ole parts washer sink?

Here's what I've learned so far. The local oil distributor carries mineral spirits. Don't know what composition, about $27 for a five gallon sealed can. Not available in bulk so I can't take a drum and get it filled or partially filled. Apparently Varsol and ________ are brands of mineral spirits. Looks like mineral spirits are made up of a aromatic and a non-aromatic part. More of the first makes up a better solvent but is stinkier. Also seems the non-aromatic part can be in a range of some kind where the solvent is more aggressive at one end of the scale.

So now that I'm thoroughly confused, what do you guys use? Seems like something that is a good solvent but doesn't evaporate fast would be about right wouldn't it? Works good but doesn't stink? I'll have to buy about 15 gallons of the stuff so price is a consideration too.

Jim

Sep 28, 2007 14:03:48
MGBSS

Jim

I use Mineral Spirits in mine works ok, doesn't seem to evaporate or stink at all. Mine needs changed but it has been in there at least three years I maybe have added one gallon in that time.

Joe





Sep 28, 2007 14:09:34
workinearly

Jim,
I've had a small Snap On barrel type parts washer for years. It's the commercial type with a tub that sits on a drum and uses a submerged pump. It holds 10 gallons. I've used nothing but plain old mineral spirits from the paint store or Home Depot and have had no problem to speak of with evaporation. I will say that when it is fresh that its not a good idea to leave it on your skin very long. Probably not a good idea to get it on your skin at all come to think of it! It is smelly, too.

Once some of the more aggressive components cook off after a week or so it's fine. We use a non-flammable liquid of some type in the parts washers at work and it works OK but not as good as mineral spirits. I've been meaning to ask the shop boys what it is and what it costs.

Sep 28, 2007 14:43:07
BMC

Stoddard solvent and Mineral Spirits are basically the same under a different name. Also add Turpentine to that list.

We use solvant from a local source. You can pick it up at most of the big box lumber suppliers.

Here is the secret to keep it from smelling:
do NOT mix lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, brake cleaner or any other spray or chemical with it. As soon as you do, your shop will be a little less safe, your spouse will not show their face in that building and your friends eyes will hurt. Thats not to mention that you could slowly kill yourself from chemicals.

Keep it from evaporating:
Make sure your approved container has a lid. Our does not seal 100%. There are places to have air escape but people walking by dont generate enough brease to effect this. Leaving the lid open can effect it to those with sensitive smell.

Keeping safe:
ALWAYS clean up after yourself. Floors, walls, everything. Its best not to have paper products near by. This stuff could catch fire easy enough.

-BMC.

Sep 28, 2007 16:00:48
rficalora


I use mineral spirits in mine. Whatever you do, don't use carb cleaner... it'll take all the paint off the inside of the sink & you'll be picking gooey paint pieces out for days after you drain it... DAMHIKT!

Sep 28, 2007 16:52:42
xruling

I run kerosene mixed with Gunk concentrated degreaser. Not very smelly or volatile. Works well.

Sep 29, 2007 07:35:29
workinearly

Mineral spirits - petroleum disitllate

Turpentine - pine sap distillate

Sep 29, 2007 11:31:59
mowog1

I bit the bullet and bought three 5-gallon cans of solvent at the local farm supply store. Same price range as Jim described.

I also keep a spray/spritzer bottle of gunk handy....and the concentrate and kerosene to make it...

Sep 30, 2007 15:03:39
hamondale

Another trick that is used in industry is to put a layer of inert floating balls on the surface, typically polypropylene. They are made to float roughly 50% in/50% out (exact level is solvent density dependent) to minimize the exposed liquid surface area available for evaporation. Parts can be placed into the bath and removed through the layer of balls. See http://www.serfilco.com/ftp/Literature/bulletin/A-202.pdf for one example.

Oct 01, 2007 15:48:46
mr weekend

I've always used standard heating kerosene like you can buy at the Gas station, cheap, not too volatile and doesn't smell bad. I kept it in a standard drop-lid, powered parts cleaning tank.

Oct 01, 2007 19:57:53
scotabbott

K1 kerosine is very similar to stoddard and mineral spirits. Adding a detergent to this makes it really effective. Important is to keep it as uncontaminated with phenolics and cresolics as possible. They stink and are dreadful on the skin or other tissue. Wear gloves and work in a ventilated area.

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