I have a friend who want me to sort out the floors and sills on a TR6. Can't say as I know a lot about them, but I am not afraid of tin work in general.
What worries me is that the TR6 is a body-on-frame car and with the floor panel forming part of the inner sill, it looks like the body has to come off the frame to do new floor pans. Is this the case?
Also, I am not seeing any repair panels for the bottoms of the fenders. Am I looking in the wrong place?
Peter
TR6 Floors and Sills
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I am not a body man but suggest you are probably correct about body removal. Being a body on frame actually means less complex structure between A and B posts. The most recurring problem however is at the rear bulk head....that questionable build to support the rear axle typically results in the hardware ripping out of the floor....I have seen and know of more troubled TR 2500L here in the upper midwest than OEM with no issues. Would assume the same even further north....
..they almost exclusively rust out by your left foot on the drivers side and in that corner,same for the other side also. The will rust out where the seat belt anchor is on the B post. The floors can be expertly pieced without body removal, if the B post is bad thats a little more work. Removal of the FR fenders let you see the worst of the sill damage. All can be repaired without taking off the body. But if your man wants all new then lift off the frame and thats not to hard....but brace brace brace...the sills are three piece, floor outside edge, inner upper sill and outer rocker and then end caps.
as far as fender bottom repair panels, they don't make the panels, at least they didn't but I haven't look in recent years.
So what? You got that E Type done already??;)
Wyatt is correct. With these you need to establish your door gaps and brace the opening. Once off the frame a TR will fold up like a wet napkin. Actually they are kinda flexy even when all together.
I suppose you could just support the body without completely removing it. But you still need to put some sort of brace between the top of the A & B pillars.
I don't know about the patch panels. On a TR6 you can buy Heritage fenders. That seems to be what most do.
Buy all the new TR6 panels you want. You still won't get them to fit properly.
I speak from miserable experience on this one.
Buy all the new TR6 panels you want. You still won't get them to fit properly.
I speak from miserable experience on this one.
"
...yer right, it takes lots of messin..thats because some of the Heritage stuff is made on old worn out dies,or remade new ones. The best parts are NOS or super clean originals...of which I have a store of in the barn fenders and a valance or two......hee hee...
So what? You got that E Type done already??;)
Wyatt is correct. With these you need to establish your door gaps and brace the opening. Once off the frame a TR will fold up like a wet napkin. Actually they are kinda flexy even when all together.
I suppose you could just support the body without completely removing it. But you still need to put some sort of brace between the top of the A & B pillars.
I don't know about the patch panels. On a TR6 you can buy Heritage fenders. That seems to be what most do.
"
Jim:
They are comming out of the woodwork. Thank god I have a day job and can afford to run from the hopeless cases if I want.
The fenders might be the deal killer here. These things look like they can get expensive to sort out properly. Personally, I would rather fix that desperate Jag and feel better about the results!
Funny:
six replies on the OT forum and none on the TR6 forum
Skye can only offer a banquet hall, linen, fine china, silverware and good company. The depends on the masses to enter in. His fourms are or portend to be, the best format I have encountered and I kick around in about 20...this is the one I believe is the best or near so.
Update:
Had a look at the car, and I think that I have convinced the owner to just drive it into the sunset.This is for sure a frame off job and I can't see where the car will be worth it in the end. The sad thing is he has already paid a mechanic somewhere between 15 and 25k to do a ton of mechanical work on the car.
"
Some people just don't get it. That kind of money could have bought one or two very nice LBCs. While TR 6s have a couple of unique issues owing more to their rear suspensions, I do not consider them extraordinarily expensive to restore.
...agreed, and it is the one car BL could have sold forever....at a profit.
[quote=NOHOME,1981748,1982352]... he has already paid a mechanic somewhere between 15 and 25k to do a ton of mechanical work on the car.
"
Some people just don't get it. That kind of money could have bought one or two very nice LBCs. While TR 6s have a couple of unique issues owing more to their rear suspensions, I do not consider them extraordinarily expensive to restore.
[/quote]
Same with MGBs and other cars I'm sure. No one wants to pay for a done car for whatever reason. I think they assume they can do one up cheaper. Never happens that way.
I think they assume they can do one up cheaper. Never happens that way.
"
I am not sure some folks "think" through it at all. Hiring a restoration is bound to be very costly. 2-3 times as much as the car is really worth. I suppose that "works" for those with deep pockets but it really does't make a lot of sense to me.
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