I figure that what with using an early narrow tunnel car, I might as well go ahead and start the project with the 302 I have. There will be enough challenges to overcome before I need to source a better engine. Thought I would introduce the victim!
More pics of the recipient at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2663062
Pete
The parts are comming together!
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Good choice Peter... i know there are some folks who prefer the GM V6 & BOPR variants, but i'm happy with my choice to go with a 302. I know a bunch of people who've gone that way & haven't found any who are disappointed with their choice!
Good luck & keep us posted.
Rob
You'll probably be surprised how well the g'box fits in the narrow tunnel if you position your engine where most people do. My buddy has a '66 GT running a Mustang T-5 with the shifter coming up through the standard hole, and he really didn't have to do much massaging to the tunnel at all.
In the next couple of years, I'm going to convert a steel-dash car, but I'm going to position the engine way back in the car (like the pic below), and run a T-5 with a Chevy S-10 tailshaft to put the shifter in the right location.
Benny:
There will be a bunch of research before we cut the old gal up. I want to see how far back I need to go to avoid cutting the front crossmember. I am wise to the T5 from a V8 mated to a S10 tailshaft.
I have in my distant past worked on a few tube framed drag cars. Once I start cutting, originality is history, so I may explore the idea of doing a front clip to get what I want.
Pete
Dude, it's amazing how much that looks like the Roadmaster! (BRG '68 GT)
Jim
NOHOME Wrote:
Benny:
I want to see how far back I need to go to avoid cutting the front crossmember. "
That's also my goal.
I have seen the metalic blue car (above) in person while on a busines trip to Florida, and I can tell you, that is right about where your engine needs to be to drop in behind the crossmember. It's running a T-10, so the shifter is not too far back, but with a Mustang T-5, that car would have to have an angled gear lever like a big-block Cobra.
Yes, the car's originality will be long gone, but it's only firewall sheetmetal that gets removed. The car above even runs cast iron manifolds down between the frame rails, although the driver's side is slightly modified to clear the steering. The steering could have been done much better, but over all, I really like the way that car was done.
Benny or Pete
What is the trick with the s-10 tail shaft. I know the s-10 has the shifter a lot more forward than the Mustang but are you making one trans out of two?
How much difference is there between the two locations
On my 71 B the back of my heads are 3" forward of the firewall and I am using a mustang t-5 with the shifter in the stock MGB location, shifter slightly tilted forward. I was going to bring the engine back further but the shifter location became an issue and also rear spark plug on drivers side.
Joe
Peter, this is about what you need to do to get behind the crossmember. The car is Leonard Marshall's & is complete now... you can see more of what he did at http://www.britishv8.org/MG/LeonardMarshall.htm but this pic should give you a good feel for how much of the firewall area needs to be modified to get the motor far enough back... For less work but more money, the alternative is to use an after market cross member like Ted's or the Hoyle unit.
Joe:
With the T5 it is possible to swap the tailshaft from an S10 on to the rear of a V8 rated transmision. The only challenge that I have heard of is getting the speede drive on the output shaft relocated. I have seen where this has been dealt with, so it should not be a big deal.
Having said that, all of the tranny splicing articles that I have read pertain to a GM version of the T5. I do not know what to expect on the rear end compatibility issues with a Mustang T5. Anyone have an answer?
Pete
NOHOME Wrote:
I do not know what to expect on the rear end compatibility issues with a Mustang T5. Anyone have an answer?
"
Yeah, it's no big deal with a Ford box either. They do it for the early Falcons all the time because they have a crossmember right in the way of a Mustang shifter. The early-Ford guys also use this trick so they can run bench seats, so it's a well travelled path. The speedo issues that you mentioned are also present with the Ford box, and I'm not sure of the route around that....minor point to me though, none of my speedos work on any of my 6 cars anyway!
Joe, Yes, one tranny out of two. It's not too hard to pull the tailshaft off an S-10 in the boneyard, so you don't really have two whole trannys....although they'd probably charge about the same as a whole g'box. The S-10 tailshaft brings the shifter forward by 8 inches over a Mustang box, and upwards of 9 on a Camaro box if I remember correctly.
Thanks
I thought it was a quite a bit, if I would have brought my engine back 3 more inches and say my trans is back less than 2 inches now that would mean I would have to have the shifter 3 to 4" ahead of were it is now,(in the stock location). I will have to look at my car in the Morning to see how that would have been.
You never know when I might start another project:)
I think if the engine was back 3 more inches I would have to have an inspection hole in the fire wall to install Drivers side rear spark plug.
Joe
MGBSS Wrote:
I think if the engine was back 3 more inches I would have to have an inspection hole in the fire wall to install Drivers side rear spark plug.
"
Yep, just like a Tiger....I've already thought that one through (at least in my head).
Having said that, I can still get the number 8 plug out of my Cortina in less than a minute with no inspection hole, and it is pretty well buried.

Benny
I thought it was number 8 but I am getting tired.
Good looking engine bay, very clean.
Joe
Thanks for the link to Leonards car. It covers a lot of the pitfalls and solutions to this swap. I see where he has the "Cobra" bend to the shifter. I think the S10 tailshaft will solve this in an elegant manner.
Pete
Leonard's car has some really nice features. The engine position and the headers look to be beautifully done from the pics.
I'd love to get an up-close-and-personal look at his steering....is it just me, or does it appear that he has angled his rack so that the pinion comes out vertically? I wonder how he makes that connection without some crazy u-joint angles?
Benny
Looking at the pics again of leonards car I see that he shimmed forward and raised the rack by one bolt hole but I didn't see a different angle. I am not sure yet how he cleared the cross member, even if you get the oil pan behind I cant believe you could get the balanced behind it, think he must be above it.
I don't know but is a nice car that is for sure.
Joe
The hood scoop is a concern. He mentions it is for "additiona hood clearance". I wonder if the engine is not mounted high enough to clear the crossmember with the compromise being the hood scoop being mandatory. I was trying to get a good look at the engine mounts. The engine is set far enough back that the front of the head lines up with the rear crossmember bolt. I also wa looking at the steering colum inside where it meets the firewall: Is that stock?
Is the AC condenser in the back of the car, where the drivers side battery would go?
The rack looks like it may have been raised to compensate for lowering the car and curing any bump steer.
I would love to get close and personal with this car.
Pete
Joe,
Take a look at the picture below. I think it is pretty apparent that the stock rack mounts have been cut, knocked down, then welded back together. Look in particular at the cap where the pinion goes into the rack housing...on a stock B that's at something like a 45 degree angle to the road, in this car it appears to be parallel to the road.
As for the balancer, you are right, you would have to get the engine WAY back to be behind the crossmember, but there is no need to do that, it sits nicely above it (see second pic of another car). This car also appears to have its rack angled upward slightly over stock, but I don't believe it's as much as the first car.
Pete,
I think he could have easily cleared the stock hood with a better choice in filters, manifold, etc. The engine appears to be sitting plenty low enough.
Benny
I think you are correct he does have it turned up you have a good eye.
How many inches would you guess that the heads are forward of the fire wall
The other is my car the front of the head is in line with the front cross member bolt
Joe
It's hard to say, remember the left head sits further back thatn the right.
The metallic blue car I posted up near the top of the thread, I'd say the left head was no more than 2-2.5" from the firewall. The oilpan on that car sat behind the crossmember.
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