Thread on Accusump electronic valve

Could somebody tell me what size thread is it (female) on an electronic Accusump valve?

Also, what is your prefered size of Accusump for an MGB?

1/2" NPT for the electric valve. I just got done fooling with mine. No experience with it yet.

Fred,

Just for peace of mind....I"m sure you've heard "don't use the electric valve". It's my understanding that the older style valve was not necessarily prone to failure but not the best designed. We run the new electric valves on both cars and have had zero issues. I happen to think it's easier than a manual valve because I place the toggle inline with all my other switches and it's just an automatic deal to shut it off as part of the process of starting the car once it's running.

Fred, what size can did you use?

2 Qt. can. I used the electric valve for the same reason. The bottle and valve are brand new, so I should have the new valve that you mentioned.

I think the problem with the electric valve is not an electro-mechanical problem, but a flow related issue.

A car builder in Southern California, Kurt Bilinski, went round and round with Canton a couple years ago about how fast the electric valve would actually pass oil in the event of failure. After going round and round with him (and not providing an answer) Canton finally stopped talking him.

I run a manual valve remote from the can. Plumb from the can to the valve located by the shift level, then through the bulkhead. Putting the maunal valve on the can where it's tough to reach makes no sense to me.

I've been having some weird things happen when the oil get hot.
When it's cool everything works as it's suppose to.

I have the switch wired to the IGN
I turn the switch on (engine cool) and the pressure of the sump (70 psi or so) goes down and the engine pressure goes up (30-40)
Then I start the car.

But after a session/race (sometimes) I rev the car to 2500-3000 and the sump pressure does not go up (but the engine pressure is at 65-70)

Been using this setup w/ the 30 lb switch.

Can't figure it out

I think the problem is it's wired directly to the ignition versus on its own toggle. The sump will not recharge fully unless the electric valve is shut off. Atleast that is my understanding of how it works.

I thought if the electric is shut off to the solenoid that the valve would close and no oil could get in or out.

I've never used the accusump, though I have one plumbed into my engine. When you flip the electric valve on, does it make any noise?

Yep...It goes click...

But I can't hear it over the engine noise, so I don't know if it does it at shutdown.

I hear the click too, but since I can't get the car to start :) I am not sure if it is working.

I should find out soon.

That makes sense to me: The 30 psi switch is closing at the pressure and is only storing oil at 30 psi, not the 65-70 that your engine may produce.

I believe someone wondered how long it took for the oil to discharge. I have a 2 qt. unit and opened the valve today with the feed line disconnected to get the oil out of the unit. It fully discharged the oil in about 3 seconds.

Best--Michael Oritt
Elva Courier

I hope you were ready to catch it :) That is fast.

I was ready!

I think the first part of my last post is wrong--I believe there is a one-way orifice that admits oil into the cylinder under engine oil pressure (regardless of whether the electric pressure switch is energized or not.

Dave--how/where are you measuring oil pressure on the accusump? The guage on the closed end of mine measures air pressure behind the piston.

Best--Michael Oritt
Elva Courier

I guess it is more of an academic/curiosity question now...

The BOD dropped the weight of my car from 2490 to 2340.
And even with a crash diet...I don't think I can get fatty down that far.

So the Accusump is coming out.

And it'll get interesting from there :)

BTW....The air pressure in the sump = oil pressure