Timing question

OK, after 3 years of restoration, I finally got the GT running. Now I must say I have not rebuilt the engine and tranny, that was done by the prior owner. There are a few minor things that have to be done, but nothing major. The reason for this post is I'm having a timing issue. In getting the engine started, I static timed it. I set the timing at 10" BTDC and the car would not start. I backed it off and the car finally started. When I out the light on it and tried to set it at 14"BTDC the engine would die. I can get it running pretty smooth, but the timing mark is WAY BTDC, in fact about an inch below. Now I had thought my engine was and 18v, (i know I should have known this prior but anyway) but after looking at it last night it is an 18g. The only timing notches are on the top, as you would find with a 18v and there are none on the bottom from what I could tell. How can I ensure the timing is correct, when I have no reference point?

pull the valve cover and rotate the engine untill you have #1 valves closed and #4 valves rocking.. That should get you real ciose to TDC..
Or check this http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=Universitymotorsltd#p/u/32/Aw7IdW4Qxcc

A dial indicator can be placed down #1 plug hole. Carefully rotate engine by wrench with crank bolt or place in 4th gear and push car to locate TDC of piston. You can then scribe a mark on the damper. The rubber in the damper could have deteriorated and the outer ring with the pully slipped and the mark will be off. I found one from an 18v on a GK, it had been welded together as they must have thought it had slipped, but the marks were correct for 18v.

To me the static timing reference point is just that, a static reference point. Adjust to make it run better.

My technique, while driving in 3rd gear at 1500RPMs try and aggressive accelerate. Then retard/advance the timing until mild pinging. I don't want the car pinging under hard acceleration, but typically if I am trying to accelerate hard, I am at higher RPMs and the slightly higher timing advance which pings at 1500 is appropriate.

I don't know why, but when I changed my '65s ignition from points/condenser to Petronics, it advanced the timing quite bit. The car went from running quite well, to starting OK, having far less pickup, and would ping like crazy under load. I retarded the timing, and with a handful of test runs dialed it in well.

Any static marks I was going off wouldn't have helped. Using a strobe is better if you want to dial in the timing per a specification. To my way of thinking, the static setting is to get it started and then adjusted.

If you can't get the timing dialed in over a range of RPMS, consider getting a rebuilt distributor, or your own re-conditioned, by someone who does LBC distributors.

Douglas

Yours is a not an unusual situation.

Many DPO’s put the cars together using parts from many cars. Damn near anything is possible.

While stuff is similar it will bolt together and work to a degree.

The engineer designed the car and put specific parts together to make a package.

A G engine is a 62/63 as you know. It has a mechanical tach. I prefer the way they run if that is what you have. Course, that is what I have.

I would use the inside of your manual and start recording stuff. I.E.Vin ID numbers of engine and the car body

Dizzy number. It is on the side of the unit and there were a dozen and the right one is the best.

Carb number. Where the vacuum advance is connected.

Then like Blake said you start looking at stuff.

Next I would carefully test the dizzy for being the right one and that the Mechanical/centrifugal advance work. Vacuum connected correctly.

My car(63) has never had a strobe on it. I have no idea what the numbers are except it runs like crazy. Our local mechanic does most things by ear. Alonzo is describing the technique we use with my b. I am flexible though, if I have to be. I(retired en\engineer) have always adjusted my cars by the book I recently straightened up my sons 69 Chevelle. The dizzy was a mess. The car is scary now. By the book.

The easiest way to find TDC accurately is with a piston stop (tool) like this:
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/212003/Top-Dead-Center-tool_1138932.html

Then install a timing pointer and a tape indication the new TDC and timing marks like this:
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/84779/MGB-Timing-Tape-kit-1962-1971_404918.html

Then you can use a timing light to check timing, as well as the mechanical and vacuum advance form the distributor.

Sorry for the blatent sales pitch.

Another common issue with the older crankshaft pulleys is the fact that the inner and outer portions are connected together with rubber and adhesive.
And over time the rubber/adhesive fails to hold the original alignment of the two pieces in the correct relationship. So after thirty plus years the key in the inner diameter to the crankshaft and the timing marks no longer have the original relationship.