Two quick questions on front shock mounting studs

Any tips to getting a bent stud out? Are replacement studs a common size that would be available at an Ace or HD/Lowes?

Specifically asking about #4 on the schematic from Moss below.



Thanks guys!

Stud puller or just double nut it once you remove the shock.

If you can't find correct studs you can use bolts.

You should be able to find them - 3/8-24 and 3/8-1.25mm bolts also work - ?? - that's from memory, but to be sure I'd have to go check again out in the garage. The bolts are readily available...take one of the other ones with you to the store and match them up - you need Grade 8 bolts.

How many do you need - I am pretty sure I have a couple extras - but you're a long way away and wouldn't have them by Saturday!

JIM in NH

Hi Bill - just used the double nut trick and it worked a treat! Thanks, seems obvious in hindsight but not sure I would have thought to do that. Thanks!

Hi Jim - thanks for the info. The one I just pulled had two different threads on it separated by a non-threaded band in the middle. Is that normal/correct?

Thanks!

Glad it worked. Some cars have coarse thread in the frame and UNF on top, Some have fine both ends (I think MGA may be that way, but memory fails me). Buy grade 8 stuff like Jim said - cheap insurance.

Thanks guys. If I'm gong to use grade 8 bolts it would seem like I should remove all the studs and use all grade 8 bolts so the load is evenly taken. Good idea you think or overkill?

So nice to be making some progress again on the MGA!

Thanks!

Difficult to find the studs in a hardware store, these are 3/8" , fine thread in one side coarse thread in the bottom side, replace with bolts 3/8" -1.25" coarse thread.
1.5" will be to large and 1" will be too short. Use a pressure whaser!!

Thanks Raul.

Check out the differnet lengths of the studs. Short ones were all the same on the drivers side, long ones all the same on the passenger. Odd...

If you replace them with the bolts, it actually makes it possible to remove the shock later with the body on. With the studs, you can't get the rear of the shock over the studs themselves to remove it which is a PITA if you have to do it.

JIM

Good point. Thanks Jim!

OK - got the the 3/8 coarse 1.25 bolts and when I checked to make sure they fit I discovered that I'm missing a captive nut on one of the bolt holes. That is to say that one of the stud/bolt mounting points does not have a nut/thread at the bottom.

Can I simply use a nut on the bottom or I need to weld the nut into place?

Thanks guys!

it all depends on how anal you would like to be...

A welded nut will make life much easier later on down the road if you were to replace the damper once it leaks. Otherwise you'll have to remove the coiled spring to access the nut. If it was me---I would tack weld now if your springs are out.

Tom

It is not need to weld the nut in the bottom, (difficult to do) as long as you can insert the nut and thight it properly using a presure whaser in the bottom or top of the bolt.

Seeing that everything is currently stripped I think I'll suck it up and weld a new captive nut in place. Raul, good to know however that I don't absolutely need to.

Thanks guys.