Weber 32/36 DGAV Carb, Is it really that hard?

I attached a couple photos of the Weber 32/36 I acquired for the rebuild on my Wife's '80 MGB. It appears to be in great shape and was very clean when I got it, but I'm no carb expert. I could take it down to my local MG expert, but what's the fun in that? Can it really be that tough to adjust the linkages and/or replace and parts? It appears to me that it is missing a spring on the auto-choke body between the choke body itself and the choke control lever. It also is missing a diaphram on one side (not sure of the terminology because the weber directions don't appear to show it, or i'm not seeing it in the diagram I have). Should I just take it in and have a pro do it, really? Or, is there a web link, video, or manual that will help me out?

Matt

Two more photos

http://www.mgexperience.net/article/3236dgev.html

Here's one from the library......

The DGAV is fairly straight forward to rebuild. The only thing complicated is the throttle linkage. too many pieces that can only go together one way. Take a few pics while you pull things apart for reference. The only adjusting you will need to do is on the idle circuit. I suspect the diaphragm you think you are missing you are not missing at all. The only diapfraghm you can see from the outside of the carb is the acclerator pump and it is present in your pictures. The place where it looks like something is missing should be blank.

haynes has a repair manuel for the weber that i use it's not bad and it has parts breakdowns that will help

I don't think there is a spring that belongs around that choke linkage anywhere. No diaphram goes in that spot that's made for one. It's a casting provision for an accelerator pump that isn't used because your pump is on the other side. There by the fuel inlet fitting. That basic carburetor casting can be set up for several variations of itself and that's why some things aren't wahat they appear to be.

looking at the pics, it looks like it would be a pain to adjust the carb with the idle and air mixture screws facing the engine. Can the carb be installed with the screws facing the fender well?
Jg

73JGB Wrote:

I think that if yo put the choke back on it you'll be good to go. The choke can be set with the carb off the car. To set the choke remove the air cleaner. With the engine cold (ambient temperature) loosen the screws on the choke housing, open the throttle a little and turn the housing until the choke closes then release the throttle. Don't touch the throttle linkage again throughout the rest of the setting. Now, push the choke butterfly open with your finger and pull it away quickly. The butterfly should close with a soft click, not like a mouse trap. Adjust the housing until the choke closes softly and tighten the housing screws.

John: My question would then be, when I reattach the choke the ' choke control lever' (as defined by this diagram www.cjclub.co.il/files/32_36DGAVEV_parts.pdf ); part #36, spins freely. Isn't a spring (part #37) suppossed to be used here? Its hard to see in the pic I sent, but it is missing the spring.

Matt

<http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/32_36DGAVEV_parts.pdf>

I believe you're right.